Friday, May 29, 2009

The happiest place on earth.

DAY NINETEEN, May 28, 21.9 Miles
At mile 356.2
Got to McDonald's nice and early. There I remained for five hours. Yes. Through the breakfast menu, on to lunch. I spent about $20, including some take away burgers for dinner (they were all sweaty and squashed and eerily warm and incredible). Anti-McDonald's types annoy me, so don't even try. You secretly enjoy it as much as the rest of us. There was actually a bunch of us there so I wasn't the awkward smelly hiker in the corner all alone for half a day. It was super fun. Cherry flavoured soft drinks and free refills are standard in the U.S. which is great. The afternoon was spent "climbing in earnest" and was quite viewy and rather shady. Sidling, as usual, climbed about 3000 easy feet. That McDonald's went straight through me and I was all exposed. Campsite is all Nepali, awesome location, awful site.

I'm fairly certain there's a rock following me. It positions itself right in front of my right big toe whenever I look up from the trail. STOP IT.

DAY EIGHTEEN, May 27, 27.7 Miles
At mile 334.3
The trail between Deep Creek hot springs and the Mojave River Forks Reservoir Dam. Well. It was horrible. Trash everywhere, cigarette butts, graffiti. The graffiti was the worst. Come on. It was everywhere. I like graffiti and tags. When it's artistic, intelligent, or daring. But this was just all too common, pathetic vandalism. I think the fact that there was nothing remotely good says a lot of the people who do and do not tag up there. The dam is garish and if you believe the guidebook, quite unnecessary. Actually, the guidebook was fantastic today, "The next morning..." assuming anyone would want to camp at the dam (no), "possibly with a brisker stride..." whatever. Just describe the damn trail. It was actually pretty easy to get lost after the dam, and I did, sort of. I was paralleling the trail until pointed in the right direction. Trolled under a bridge in front of Cedar Springs Dam (yeah, another one) for lunch, until I was woken by a carefree herbicide man. Silverwood Lake was nice, a swim was tempting, but I want to get to McDonald's as early as possible tomorrow morning (yes, I've been planning this for a while). Got a fresh blister for my troubles today, and my dodgy knees are returning with a vengeance. Cloudy and anty campsite. Looked like rain until the clouds literally (yes) disappeared. As if it was going to rain...

Impact! Hippies.

DAY SEVENTEEN, May 26, 22 Miles
At mile 306.6
Walked, lunched and slept under a bridge, walked, hot springs. OK, nothing more. Barren. Next.

Why do hot springs always attract assholes and people who feel the need to get naked? "I'm comfortable with who I am." Whatever.

The fires were out of control but he danced along anyway.

DAY SIXTEEN, May 25, 19.4 Miles
At mile 284.6
Heaps glad I decided to stay in Big Bear, super relaxing. Shadow (the hiker formerly known as George) and I got a ride back to the trail head from Trail Angel Lee and his brute of a recovery vehicle. Awesome. Started at a little before 1.00pm, done by 7.30. Oh the power of a little rest and a lot of town food. A fair number of day walkers about, it's Memorial Day here. Nice temperature, ugly, fire scarred (last year I think) terrain.

Monday, May 25, 2009

There's no bears in Big Bear.

DAY FIFTEEN, May 24, 9.4 Miles
At mile 265.3
It was cold this morning, damn cold. Damn damn cold. Wanted to get to Big Bear as early as possible, my plan was to resupply, hitch back out and keep going to Wrightwood. However. I'm pretty sure I can have a night in town and still make it by Friday, so that's what I decided. I guess this section of the trail is where all the balloons in California come to die. Something to do with wind, or lack of, I guess, but there's so many tattered balloons about. Including one that sang. Horribly. Damn balloons. Rant. There was cans of soda waiting at the highway. And on the subject of waiting at the highway. Todd and me. Thumbs out. Forty-five minutes. Far. Out. And. As soon as Buster, Bluebird and George appeared, the FIRST CAR stopped. Really? He was English and really nice. Big Bear is also nice, a wee bit too spread out, but walking is what we do. Devastated the Sizzler Salad Bar Buffet. Didn't even need dinner. Big Bear Hostel is outstanding.

Attack! Hummingbird.

DAY FOURTEEN, May 23, 23.9 Miles
At mile 255.9
I picked an awful spot to camp last night, the wind went away but I was on the most awkward backwards slope that you don't notice until you lay down. Dang. Today was fun though. I liked today. Above 7000ft most of the day and in trees. Nice temperature. Little wind. Things to look at. Best lunch spot yet, got to eat a ton of food, cause I'll be in Big Bear a day early. The miles came easier than they have the last couple of days, despite about 5000ft worth of climbing, took loads of long breaks and still made camp before dark. Nice campsite too. About three miles back was a cooler full-o-fruit with a lay-z-boy hanging out next to it, provided by the awesome Grayson of Big Bear Hostel. Perfect. Todd and myself had just been talking about fruit a mile before that. Actually, we also had the same idea to catch and train Hummingbirds. There's heaps around, and they're completely adorable. We will train them to eat the bugs that annoy us so. Their names will be Rudiger, Pall and Airwick. It's getting pretty cold now. Saw a lion, tiger and two grizzlies. Something to do with animal actors I think. They were in cages and looked ultra bored.

Sunday, May 24, 2009

"The elevation change between two points?" asked the shy Pirate.

DAY THIRTEEN, May 22, 24 Miles
At mile 232
So I woke up all sandy, as expected, delight. Turns out the interstate would have been pretty horrible. Although there were mattresses there... Only a few miles across the desert floor then you climb back out again. Which is as good as it is bad. Walked a bit through the wind farm, the windmills are creepy in a way you have to walk by to understand. The farm office buildings though. Well. They are very welcoming to hikers, let us use their lunch room, their air-conditioning, toilets, water, food. Super treat. Got to Whitewater Creek for lunch, the first decent waterway you hit on the trail. So swimming. Another treat. Despite the lack of shade about, it was magic. Pretty crappy afternoon, another notorious stretch of trail. Ugly, ugly river valley. Got pretty well burnt out, and flooded a couple of years back. At least I don't have to carry water. Right where I decided to camp, it decided to wind. Not cool. Looks like I'll be able to gain the extra day and half I needed to get to Wrightwood by next Friday, which saves me having to hang around till the post office opens on Monday. Not that that would have been bad, just I'd rather not.

Alright. Kneecaps.

DAY TWELVE, May 21, 24.1 Miles
At mile 209
Pretty cold this morning. Not too fun of a day at all really. Had to descend 7000ft to the desert floor. But first there was more climbing to do. Got a big, impressive view of San Jacinto and the desert floor that a photo could never do justice, so I didn't. The descent was all switchbacky and way longer than it could have been. Everyone complains about this section, I guess PCTA have justifiable reasons for putting the trail where they do and it's really not to big of a problem. Just that the grade of the trail can be frustratingly gentle at times. Besides, as much as it was longer it was also a lot easier on the body. I saw a King Snake eating a Rattlesnake. Amazing. Got to the bottom and water about five and hung out, the plan was to troll under the interstate but stopped a mile short. There's a huge wind farm in this valley. So, yes, it's windy. And I'm sleeping on sand. With no shelter up. And there's ants about. Grand.

Well, she's not here.

DAY ELEVEN, May 20, 18.4 Miles
At mile 184.9
Today was a little teaser for the Sierra I guess. Got up to about 9000ft. Nice temperature all day, big views, especially over Palm Springs down to the west. Heaps of up and some down. Cowboy camping at 8830 might be a little cold. We shall see. There's a little bit of snow about. Like a patch here and there and that's all. Not even worth mentioning...

Loppers.

DAY TEN, May 19, 15 Miles
At mile 166.3
Spent the morning in Idyllwild, the wonderful David provides transportation for hikers back to the trail, so went back to the highway with George, Buster and Bluebird. It's been a little cooler the last couple of days although it is rather windy. Very windy in fact. We are in trees now, which is a nice change, and there are some outstanding views from the ridge tops and passes we're crossing. Plenty of up (2000ft) and down (1000ft) but PCT switchbacks make it really easy going, especially compared to the DOCNZ straight up and down I'm so familiar with. Started today with six days of food and five litres of water so pack is ultra laden. On the plus side my clothes are CLEAN. Every time I blow my nose with my CLEAN hanky, it smells amazing. Camped down near a rather disappointing spring. Not before I almost stood on snake though.

Monday, May 18, 2009

Zero.

DAY NINE, May 18, o Miles
At mile 151.3
Well, we had to walk a mile to the Paradise Cafe... Got to Idyllwild with George in two hitches, the second being from the ultra-friendly Debbie. Idyllwild is so so nice. Did some food, internets, shower, relaxing, sleeping and wandering. There's a fair number of other hikers about, some have been here a while, mostly with foot problems, some are very impressive. Had a campfire with about fifteen of them and a dude which was just loverly.

The tale of Charlie the hungry Rattlesnake and Paul the angry Rock.

DAY EIGHT, May 17, 22.3 Miles
At mile 151.3
My biggest mile day yet, and oh how I am feeling it. Feet are quite sore. Planning a zero in Idyllwild tomorrow which is very much needed (a zero day means no trail miles, usually with a night in a town bookending said day). Woke up with the sunrise this morning which was as beautiful as you imagine it was. Todd had a mousy visitor which didn't bother me, and I was sleeping in the open again. Saw a mid sized rattlesnake on the trail. All curled up and asleep. Probably could have jumped over and it wouldn't have noticed, but for the sake of him and anyone behind me, I shooed him off the trail, he didn't rattle or even seem to notice me or Todd, and we both watched him for a good ten minutes. Came to a most interesting water source, a 'Guzzler', no idea. But it looked like a broken old two space parking lot with a hole in it. Used my bandanna to filter out the lumps and wildlife and decided to (for the first time) use iodine. It was actually quite good, that water. Wish I had some right now. More of the same walking today, sidle, sidle, sidle, although I hit the steepest sections yet. I've got a good idea of my pace (2.75mph) and can pretty accurately gauge when I'll get to a landmark, which is very useful. Was moving pretty slow all afternoon though. Todd was the only person I saw all day, until George showed up at dark.

That song by the Barenaked Ladies.

DAY SEVEN, May 16, 18.2 miles
At mile 129
So I've been walking for a week. So I had that song in my head. "Ain't nothin' gonna break my stride" enters my head whenever it so desires as well. Which is super lame and totally keeps me going (yes). Left Warner a little late this morning and actually crossed a flowing creek for a change. Five times. I even got my shoe a little wet. Incredible. Water is generally for drinking and nothing else. So I get, and stay, pretty filthy. Lunch was so fly heavy I quickly moved on. The trail crossed through a beautiful boulder field in a section that was badly burned in a wildfire a few years back, it was incredible. reminded me a little of Castle Hill in the South Island. Amazing to walk through. A Trail Angel named Mike has opened his property and water tank up to thru-hikers, he lives a little way down a dirt road the trail crosses. Another one of the ridiculously nice, generous folk who just likes to help people out here. Monologue was down there, along with some new folk, Tom and Tori from Alaska and two guys named Matt. There was this chair. It was just a regular camp chair. It was incredible. So I stayed an extra hour. Just sitting. Magic. Walked another two miles up to the shoulder of a peak I wish I could remember (Coumbs? no? I don't know), anyway, point is, there was an awesome collection of campsites with views all round. Splendid. Todd appeared and we spent the night chatting. Super nice guy. And the bugs love him and ignore me. Perfect.

I have been trail named. Most thru-hikers get a trail name. It's another part of the awesome trail culture I love so much. Apparently I say heaps, well, heaps (and I really, really do). And Americans seldom use it. So I am Heaps.
Excellent.
So one week. Feeling pretty good. Feet are sore, the desert environment makes it worse. If you hardly get blisters, you will here (ask Buster). If you never chafe (me), you will here. The dirt gets through your shoes and socks and your feet are black. Like I said before water is for drinking. Only. And often I'm carrying five litres of it. The water report is priceless. I don't mind the heat as much as most, all those Australian summers spent working outside were great for that. Loving the desert, the wildlife, the scenery, the whle PCT so far.

One hundred.

DAY SIX, May 15, 19.6 Miles
At mile 110.8
Passed mile 100 this morning. I'm getting there. It was so damn humid last night and super warm. Woke up all sweaty. Obviously it's not enough to sweat litres during the day. It was a pretty cruisy walk down to Barrel Spring were I met up with the rest of the five for lunch (that being George, Sean, Bluebird and Buster). I spend most of my time hiking alone but usually lunch and camp with others, there's maybe eight other hikers that I see regularly. It wasn't too hot today and I don't mind when it is anyway. We all wanted to get to the Warner Springs store, which closes at 6.30, so got going early afternoon. Walked through some open grassy fields on the way which was nice for variety, and passed Eagle Rock, a rock that looks like an eagle (yeah). Needless to say that song was in my head for a while. Reminded me of all those weddings. Got to the store with time to spare and increased my daily calorie count threefold. Normal caloric requirements are 2000-2500, out here we probably can take 4000-6000. This is very hard to do. Especially when you have to carry it. And six litres of water. So it doesn't happen. Only when you hit civilisation do you get close. The other four had packages to pick up in the morning so we wanted to camp close to town, found a nice enough spot near a beautiful and very welcoming old chapel. Some nuns appeared, I asked if it was ok that we camp there. They were Chinese tourists who barely spoke English. Oops. Just as I was about to bed down someone came from behind a torch and asked us to leave. Turns out it was the security guard from the Warner Springs Resort (the town basically is the resort) and we ended up staying there. Crafty fellow. Splitting a room five ways wasn't too bad and they have a hot spring pool which was ultra hot on my rash-legs but soothing all the same.

We could be something in a new location.

DAY FIVE, May 14, 14 Miles
At mile 91.2
Mike and Phyllis. Oh how much you did for me. They gave me breakfast and gave me and an appeared out of nowhere George up to lovely Julian to resupply. Very nice little town and very hiker friendly. Got a little food and some internet at the super friendly library. Two hairy man-hikers trying to hitch down to Scissors was getting a little tough. Until. The Millers appeared into our lives (again). So they gave us a lift down to Scissors Crossing and we trolled under the Hwy 78 bridge with Bluebird, Buster and a friendly King Snake until it got cooler. Only it didn't, and it was 14 miles to the water cache (volunteers and generally nice folk stock water in places to help us get through long dry stretches, this one is in a particularly difficult location and is very much appreciated) where we wanted to camp so we got going at 2.40. It was super hot and very exposed. A fair climb than an endless sidle. the views were outstanding though. I was pretty burned out with a few miles to go and didn't get in to about 8. I saw a Mountain Lion print (I think) on the way up and a ton of lizards, birds, bugs and scurriers. The desert is so alive at dusk. Beyond tired so I had a lunch for dinner and just cowboy camped (no tent, I would have started doing that soon enough anyway). It's a beautiful spot up here, there's five other hikers with me and stars forever. This is why I'm here.

*I apoligise for me being super vague at times, internet time is precious little. I also apoligise for my confusing and awkward mash of gorgeous metric and annoying American measurements. But yeah.*

Thursday, May 14, 2009

The kindness of strangers, part IV

DAY FOUR, May 13, 17.2 Miles
At mile 77.2
Today ended up being amazing. Basically went for broke and did the 17.2 miles as quickly as possible, finished about 2pm. It was hot. the last couple of miles you drop down to the valley floor and the heat sits on you. I had planned on camping at Scissors Crossing where there is a water cache (big thanks to all involved there too), and hitching up to Julian for a resupply tomorrow. But. Had come across some section hikers, Mike and Phyllis, earlier in the day who offered me a lift to their campground (Stagecoach trails, not sure how many hikers use it, but it's friendly and cheap). So Mike took me down on his motorbike (yes), relaxed in their trailer with cold drinks (yes), and gave me some leftover hiking food (almost enough for resupply). I got a shower and washed clothes, and we went to an Indian Casino (oh, yes) for a massive dinner that would frighten even Binod. Basically Mike and Phyllis are some of the nicest people I've ever meet. I'll see them when I get near Tahoe as well. I have some serious pay-it-forward to give. On a more painful note, I keep getting this rash from all the pointy desert plant-folk and the heat and dry make my nose bleed like crazy. Good times.

Skeleton Boy.

DAY THREE, May 11, 18.4 Miles
At mile 60
I got going too late. Again. At least today didn't get too hot. Got in about 11 miles before lunch, quite nice actually, some big views, I probably should spend some time finding out what it is I'm actually looking at most of the time. Met up with another hiker, Shaun, and had a nice shady lunch in a picnic area. Just as we were about to leave George appeared. Just as we were about to leave again the Miller's showed up with water and Oranges. Magic. They are a super nice couple who stock up some of the water stops in this section with fresh water. The spirit of helping and support surrounding this trail (trail magic) is almost beyond belief, so many people willing to go out of their way to help complete strangers. I love it. I have some serious pay-it-forward to give. And I will. Didn't end up leaving the picnic area till 3:30 and we had planned on going another 11 miles. We had to camel up on water, there's some water along the way but some of it is off trail, which I'll avoid if possible, and I wanted to be prepared for a dry camp. Wasn't too hot, rather blowy though. I ended up stopping at about six-thirty after about 7.5 Miles at a nice, relatively sheltered flat to set up camp. George and Shaun were right behind me. My feet are getting a little mangly, the heat, sand, sweat, and walking makes for unavoidable blisters. Not too bad though.

Shoes for tyres.

DAY TWO, May 12, 21 Miles?
At mile 41.6
Probably should have set off earlier this morning. It's light at five and hot hot hot by ten-thirty, so starting after seven is not the smartest approach, I'll get better. Walked on my own most of the day. There's lizards everywhere, one escaped my giant, dangerous feet, only to get ploughed by a snake about a metre in front of me, which was awesome. The aforementioned crashed helicopter detour starts about mile 30, which I hit about eleven-thirty. The detour around is all road, it's about the same length as the trail, I think, I've heard it's less and it's more, both reliable sources, so who knows. Either way. It. Was. Horrible. I love walking the trail on my own, but there's something depressing about walking 10 miles of road and seeing nothing and no-one. Was pretty excited to finally see the "Welcome to Laguna Mountain" sign, although it was at least two miles from town. Hitching today was awful tempting, but I can't bring myself to do it, especially on day two (I mean hitching to skip miles, not to get into towns). The Ultra Friendly Film Crew passed me on the road just before town and gave me some much appreciated fruit and let me know who was behind me. The campground was a massive $19, so I rejoined the trail and camped there instead.

And so, from nothing, our universe begins.

DAY ONE, May 11, 20.6 Miles
So it begins. Frodo took the five of us (George from Georgia, Lindsey from Austin, Hannah and Robert from San Francisco and myself from New Zealand) to the border. Arrived at about 7.30, there was another starting as well, Monologue (trail name, she's hiked the Appalachian Trail). Everyone is super nice and excited. There were two other guys there with nothing packs and no water, they had an ultra friendly camera crew/support team with them but not sure what their deal is. So we got our photos, signed the register, touched the border fence and the monument and said our byes and thankyous to Frodo. Begin. Really good to start, a little surreal to be walking on this trail, the first day is a 20 Mile waterless stretch to Lake Morena so packs were heavy (35 pounds) with food and litres of water. I forgot my watch. Outstanding. We all got into our own rhythm pretty soon and split off, easy going but rather warm. The five of us met up again about midday for a long lunch and to wait till about three, which is generally the best strategy for the So Cal sections. Spent a few hours relaxing, sort of, and chasing shade. The landscape down here is beautifully dramatic and even greenish, more so than I had expected. It's pretty smoggy though. Didn't get into Lake Morena till dark, Scout had left me my watch on the trail (thanks!), so I have time again. There's a campground with shower which is magic, although perhaps wasted on the first day? I'll take it.

Saturday, May 9, 2009

Holy Lord, Cool Runnings is such a good movie.

Alright.
My sleeping bag already stinks, some of my clothes are already sweaty, and they stink too. I already have a scrappy beard. I'm tired. And it's hot. I am so ready to start this bad boy. Heaps excited. I really, truly am. My first leg is 78 Miles (4 days? that's how much food I have anyway) to a Highway 78 where I can hitch to Julian. If this makes no sense to you then:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Crest_Trail
http://www.pcta.org/
That's what I'm doing. Starting tomorrow. Yep.

Important details for people like me, in a convenient 'point form':
  • My base weight is 15lb/6.5 kg. A little heavier than I want but there's nothing I want to remove at this stage (Base weight is pack weight without food, water and fuel). I'm happy.
  • My feet are wearing New Balance 904's. Awesome shoe. All green and gold and black (like Jamaica. Not Australia). Weighs nothing and breathes like a sponge at a rag convention (yes).
  • I plan on using my Shemag. Despite the fact it makes me look like a 'terrorist'. Probably not the best idea I've had. Certainly not the worst. I have a hat as well. I hate hats. But it's going to be very hot, very dry, and very shadeless for a while.
  • I use a TarpTent Contrail. I love it and so did that Kea. Everything I have gets broken somehow.
  • My pack is a blaze orange Macpac Amp 40. Might be a little small on occasion but perfect most of the time. Plus you'd never loose me in a crowd. It's beautiful.
  • I'm bringing a squash ball and the aforementioned, uncharged Creative Zen to keep me occupied when I need to be occupied. Yahtzee is also going to make an appearance.
Also, updating this may or may not be regular or even feasible. I don't plan on being in civilisation much till mid September. So bear (yeah, the bears. Shall be interesting) with me.
I have to thank Frodo and Scout again for everything. It's been the easiest way to start.

See you in Canada.

Friday, May 8, 2009

It was dark, but Creative Labs were wearing sunglasses anyway.

About a week ago my Creative Zen exploded. Literally. Not literally literally. Just literally. Point is, it froze. And then I had to reformat. And then my music was gone. And then the computer at Mum 'n Dads refused to recognise it's MTP deviceness. Apparently this is not uncommon. I think maybe Creative is Apple in disguise, sending more frustrated white folk to the iPod. Ask Google about frozen Zen's to see what I mean. Luckily the Zen has an expandable memory, could work a lot better, but it's there all the same. So I do have some music and my Spanish lessons and Philosophy Bites for the next few months, despite my worst fears. Alas, no Demetri Martin, Mr T, Flight of the Conchords, or Brian Dunning. Terrible.

Meanwhile, my usual lack of planning anything has been fully implemented in my preparation for walking the 2650 miles from Mexico to Canada. Actually, I've done most everything I had wanted to do and anything else I am blissfully ignorant of. All my gear is sorted (I'll weigh it later but I guess 5.5kg. I hope) and guidebooks, permits and other details are done or getting there. I plan to organise most things as I go; food, replacement gear, bear canister, attempting to apply for University. It's a little more difficult this way and perhaps more expensive, but I really don't have much choice. One more day of relaxing and I start Sunday, May 10th with I think six others? We all start together courtesy of the wonderful Barney and Sandy Mann (aka Scout and Frodo, you're going to learn aaaaallllllllll about trailnames soon enough). Their place in San Diego is practically the official starting point for the PCT. I cannot say enough good things about them and everything they've done for me and hundreds of others.

On the subject of San Diego. Beautiful city. No hiding the fact it's in a desert though. Come here. Who cares about LA?

P.S. I told you the Swine flu was nothing.
P.P.S. I'M MISSING A SEIGE IN NAPIER?
P.P.P.S. A helicopter (military, of course) crashed on/near the trail about two days in. Outstanding.
P.P.P.P.S. I don't normally do this, I swear.
P.P.P.P.P.S. By 'this', I mean the P.S. stuff.
P.P.P.P.P.P.S. I'll stop now.