Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Johnny, you shall not... Oh? That much? Well. Come along then, hurry. Hurry!

DAY FORTY-TWO, June 20, 30.5 Miles (12.5 on Whitney side trip)
At mile 784.3
Got a rather brisk 6am start. Took me about two hours to get to the top of Whitney. 14,494ft, the highest point in the U.S. excluding Alaska, obviously also the highest point I'll reach on the walk (but not the highest point on the trail as it's officially a side-trip). I was surprised to feel the altitude and whipped out my Nepal breathing skills to combat it. Fair bit of snow around, but no axe, no problems. On a busy day like today about 100 people will summit so it was nice to have the summit to myself briefly, then to share it with Todd and another thru-hiker, Whitefish. Was fairly cold up there and the wind did not help matters. My camera refused to work. Of course. Back down, down, down, past some of the masses. Rejoined the PCT, now also the John Muir Trail and headed for Forester. Walking through some very nice parts of the country right now. Forester Pass is the first major pass for North-bounders, and also the highest on-trail point at 13,200ft. And my, what a pass. It's a tiny notch about ten metres wide, quite steep on the Southern side, and definitely the most intense and impressive pass I've crossed. Loads of snow going down the North side and it took a couple of hours to get to where me and Todd had planned to camp. Ended up being a little after nine and quite dark. Huge day, 5500ft of ups, 6500ft of downs.

The return of Flappy and his deadman.

DAY FORTY-ONE, June 14, 20.5 Miles (4.7 on Mt Whitney side-trip)
At mile 766.3
Nice morning, I feel really lethargic whenever I walk uphill, don't know why. Todd and me planned on climbing (that is, walking up) Mt Whitney this afternoon and sleeping on the summit but were told by a Ranger it was expected to be "cold and windy, slight chance of thunderstorms". No thanks. Cold up there would be -20C in the wind and the thing is a lightning rod. Set up camp at last lakes before the climb at about 12,000ft. I love walking through meadows.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Marmot?

DAY FORTY, June 18, 26 Miles
At mile 750.2
Loads of con. Den. Sation. This morning, but clear skies. Big views from our saddle. Turns out where we wanted to be was the next saddle. Makes sense. Oh well. Great views all day, uppy and downy, around 10k. Loads of mosquito's near water, of course. Walked through some nice rock formations, made some woeful attempts at bouldering with my pack working faithfully as spotter and drop-mat. Cloud built up during the day, threatened rain but didn't. I'm really enjoying it up here, more than I expected too, I caught Todd at Chicken Spring Lake and here we are, camping. 11,235ft.

Saddles for sleeping, bear cans for creeping, Sierra for weeping

DAY THIRTY-NINE, June 17, 21.4 Miles
At mile 724.2
For the next 250(?, something like that) miles we are required to carry a bear resistant canister. Not all the time, but for most of it, and it's just easier to carry it the whole way. This makes food a challenge. Seven days worth seems to be the limit as to what you can fit in, some do ten, my excessive five days of food is a struggle. A real struggle. And it's a big, awkward, heavy, rigid lump of a thing that refuses to cooperate with my pack when full. Joy. I've worked it out I think, took about an hour. http://www.bearvault.com/ (the big one). Left Kennedy Meadows around eight, feels like a new trail, the change is more drastic than I expected, but it's mostly in my head I imagine, Kennedy has a lot of "finished the desert, now for the good stuff" attached to it. I really, truly enjoyed the Southern California sections though, so different from what I've hiked in the past, and it was beautiful, plus I prefer hot to cold any time. Not carrying water will be a pleasure, although, I did enjoy the logistical challenge of planning for the lack of water, somewhat. The infamous mosquito's made an instant appearance too. Outstanding. Parts of this section were burnt last year, the predominantly wildflower regrowth is eerily beautiful. Missed a lunch-bridge-troll opportunity. Devastating. Kind of rainy all afternoon, enough to be a pain, not enough to be wet. Felt pretty tired all day, got to our planned saddle camp earlier than I expected. Todd has moved on I guess, Shit Monkey, Hamburgerass and Shadow have appeared. Over 10,000ft.

Well you clearly still love it enough to harmonise with...

DAY THIRTY-EIGHT, June 16, 0 Miles
At mile 702.8
Pretty fun zero, relaxing at the store. It's very easy to stay here, doing nothing.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

That's how she did it?

DAY THIRTY-SEVEN, June 15, 8.8 Miles
At mile 702.8
Finally saw a nice river, easy walk into Kennedy but I was so eager to get there it dragged. A lot. Kennedy Meadows is little more than a store and Tom's awesome place. Loads of great folk and it's such a nice little place because you get the feeling you're in the middle of nowhere even stronger than half the time on the trail, but there's burgers, ice-cream, beer and of course Dr Pepper. Will probably zero tomorrow even though I don't want to. My bounce box is not here and probably is lost forever. Dang.

Limited views? Aren't all views limited? Ohhhhhhhhh.

DAY THIRTY-SIX, June 14, 29.4 Miles
At mile 694
5000ft of up, 4000ft of down, tired from four days of 27+ miles. Last six today were torture. Kennedy Meadows tomorrow. Was cowboying under a tree until eighty-thousand little bugs started raining on me, so I set up my tent. They promptly disappeared. yep.

Like we did to the anarchists.

DAY THIRTY-FIVE, June 13, 28.9 Miles
At mile 664.6
Pretty cruisy morning (again?), mostly down with some nice views to the north (!), sixteen miles by 11.30. Oki Girl has an awesome Trail magic setup at Walker Pass Campground. Shade, Dr Pepper, Doritos and good folk. Caught Shadow and those dodgy Mojave volleyball spiked folk Shit Monkey (the hiker formally known as Ben) and Hamburgerass (Paul) plus a fair number of people I hadn't met but had heard about. Twas good funs for certainly. Another easy cause I'm fit climb with more nice views down to the desert. Once again, good campsites everywhere, until you decide you actually want to make camp, then there's nothing.

You must love Orcs to climb that hill.

DAY THIRTY-FOUR, June 12, 31 Miles
At mile 635.5
Pretty cold again this morning, easy eleven miles to water cache, sloggy seven miles to lunch. Would have been hot, if not for the cloud cover. I got attacked by some wind. Believe me when I tell you there is nothing better than a 1400ft climb waiting for you after 27 miles. One of the few times the PCT goes up and over something rather than around it. It wasn't actually too bad though and the camping up top was incredible.

Mystery noises and the USFS van team man.

DAY THIRTY-THREE, June 11, 27 Miles
At mile 604.5
Not so windy today, but still wind farm territory, was actually quite moist this morning. This humidity is very unusual apparently. Pretty easy day, small ups and downs. Much of the afternoon was in the nicest forest we've hit yet. Starting to REALLY miss my MP3 player. Gosh.

They ought to build a wind farm there...

DAY THIRTY-TWO, June 10, 19.2 Miles
At mile 577.5
Spent the morning eating too much, getting my dose of Dr Pepper and watching Saved By The Bell. Got a ride back to the trail with Todd and Monologue from Trail Angel Terry. As a celebration of my first month out here, the trail decided to throw me a wind themed party. It was insane. Through the wind farm, cross the 58, found a bridge to lunch under (of course), then up, up, up. Super heavy pack (six days food, five litres water) plus uphill and the wind. So damn tired.

Despite the lack of crowd participation, the clown continued on dancing.

DAY THIRTY-ONE, June 9, 13.4 Miles
At mile 558.3
No flash flood last night. Dang. Got started early, up, then down, down, down. Got some fairly serious fires through here last year. Walking through a second wind farm. Windy, of course. Got to the highway about 11. Got a hitch with Todd into Tehachapi. It's super spread out, so the bikes provided at Mama Hillybeans are magic. Did the usual town chores. Hours in the Candy section, Pizza and TV. McDonalds. New shoes. Choice.

Thirty sweet, noggy days.

DAY THIRTY, June 8, 26.5 Miles
At mile 544.9
Got some pancakes from Richard this morning. Add to that a litre of super-filling, ultra-hydrating Dr Pepper and I was ready. Rather flat 16 miles this morning, mostly on either jeep roads or the LA/California Aqueduct (because SoCal is a desert after all, and millions have decided to make it their home). Kind of boring, mostly walking on the covered one, so Penn (my tennis-ball, I have a Wilson thing with him now) kept me entertained. But even Penn got boring. I miss my Zen so. Trolled under a bridge for lunch, magic, as always. Bit of a windy slog of an afternoon, gradual uphill to sandy sidle. Always with the sidle. Motorbikes love these here Tehachapi mountains, and despite the damage I can definitely see why. The last half-mile runjumping down a big sandy set of switchbacks made everything alright again. Cowboy camped in a dry creek bed, and it's a wee bit cloudy up there. Clever boy.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

So what does Captain Planet have against looting anyway?

DAY TWENTY-NINE, June 7, 19.6 Miles
At mile 518.4
Rather cold and damp this morning, again. But at least the sky was clear. The goal today was Hiker Town (http://mysite.verizon.net/resplj4y/welcometohikertownhostel/). Basically got down as quick as I could to the desert floor. Oh yeah, hot and shadeless. That thing. Loverly. The trail was all piss-assy around some private land, and a wee bit vague. The lack of Guidebook/maps isn't really a problem, and I don't mind it as much as I thought I would (I usually like to know where I am, It's not a 'not getting lost' thing, I just like to know where I am). I know my pace so well that I still get to the few reference points I have more or less exactly when I expect to. Which is nice. There was a distinct lack of PCT signage today though, which is hardly encouraging. The final half mile was a dead straight, dusty road. I went a wee but nuts. Hiker Town is cool, interesting if nothing else, bunch of people here. Outstanding ice-cream sandwiches, and the always a pleasure two litre Dr Pepper. Windy.

Have trigger, will shoot. Anything. ANYTHING.

DAY TWENTY-EIGHT, June 6, 27.2 Miles
At mile 498.8
Cold. Unbelievably so. Barely got above 12C all day. I want my 40C days damnit. The morning was all foggy and drizzly enough to keep me all moist. Had lunch at Red Carpet, another wasted cache thanks to me not needing to drink (I still have a couple of litres from Auga). It cleared a little in the afternoon, I even cast a shadow. But the temperature still stayed so so low. Still in the mountains, but can see the glorious desert floor where I'm sure I'll end up wanting cold at some point. Ben and Paul caught up after an interesting evening at Casa De Luna (another trail angel place), so I'm camped with them, Todd, Monologue and a bunch of weekend camping folk. Felt like a short day, but was most certainly not. I was tired and very lethargic all day for whatever reason. This is about where some hikers apparently were stalked by a Mountain Lion about a week ago. Yes.

I walked there, and could have walked back. What's your reason?

DAY TWENTY-SEVEN, June 5, 17.2 Miles
At mile 471.6
So my bounce box never showed up. Pain. No Guidebook or maps till at least Kennedy Meadows, shall be interesting, all I have is the water report and section overview map. Hopefully the box shows up sometime soon and it gets bounced to Kennedy before I get there, no idea what I'll do if it isn't. Todd and me finally left Hiker Heaven at around 1pm, after what ended up being a little more than three full days. Definitely going to miss that place. And the Pizza place in town. It started to rain about 3pm and, of course, as we climbed the wind got stronger. Then it really started to rain. Had to be below zero with the wind chill, and the fact I was wet, hello hypothermia. Southern California? Fortunately we topped a ridge and it was almost eerily calm going down the other side. Made it to the completely amazing Hikers Oasis cache in good time. Actually the 17 miles went by so fast. Nice to hang out with cold beer and soda, despite it barely being 10C. Joy.

Thursday, June 4, 2009

I don't even need an excuse, besides, I get a discount.

DAY TWENTY-SIX, June 4, 0 Miles
At mile 454.4
So Todd and myself decided to hang around another day. Most of the folk who arrived yesterday are zeroing today, and we want to see what's going on with Bluebird. If nothing else, my bounce box is yet to arrive, and I really need that. Somewhat concerning. A bunch of us got a ride to REI with Kary, who helps out the Saufleys, she's totally great. I'm tearing through my socks so I've now got four new pairs and two old ones in my bounce box. Except I don't have my bounce box. Far out. I'm going to wait around for the mail to arrive tomorrow, see if it doesn't arrive. So three days at Hiker Heaven. It really has been so much fun here. And it's heaps more relaxed than when the herd came through a couple of weeks ago, they've had as many as twenty hikers arrive at once. It would be rather intense I imagine. Watched some movies, pizza again. Good times.

Wednesday, June 3, 2009

Guess I'm a little overdressed huh?

DAY TWENTY-FIVE, June 3, 0 Miles
At mile 454.4
Man, I love this place so much. Heaps of awesome people here, Todd, Lindsey, Shadow, Gantz, Buster, Bluebird, Monologue, Paul, Ben, Mike, plenty more. Most of the people I've enjoyed hiking with. Jeff and Donna are the greatest, so friendly. So good to do nothing. Cruising around on the bikes, eating, drinking, chatting. The pizza store in town blows my mind, they're huge and amazing. 17 inches of glorious pizza glory. I have awesome loner clothes, still haven't had to resort to the Afgan Nappy (unfortunately). Bluebird came off her bike pretty badly, broken wrist. That was hard to see, I feel so bad for her and Buster, hopefully everything sorts itself out.

We'll dance around it like wild Indians.

DAY TWENTY-FOUR, June 2, 10.2 Miles
At mile 454.4
All foggy this morning, sleeping bag was a wee bit moist. Pretty cruisy walk into Agua Dulce. Longer than necessary (as usual) walk to Highway 14, the tunnel going under was awesome. Trail goes through Vasquez Rocks, which are impressive, but not overwhelming. Ha, "impressive, but not overwhelming", whatever. But it's true. Honest. Agua Dulce is awesome though. Nice enough town, but the focus is on Hiker Heaven, no doubt. Home of Donna and Jeff Saufley, it is incredible. www.hikerheaven.com. Few people here I hadn't met yet, but it's not too busy. In herd season they have a nightly limit of fifty hikers, which happens. Basically you drop your dirty washing, have a shower and relax. Most hikers have a zero here, and I'm expecting most of the folk I've been hiking with to appear tomorrow.

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

Gravity doesn't grant me the privilege of failure.

DAY TWENTY-THREE, June 1, 31.1 Miles
At mile 444.2
Today was pretty big. I'm tired. I was listening to Explosions In The Sky all afternoon, which provides to all too frequent moments of "yes!". There were a few points where you should be able to see LA (I think) but it's all smoggy and "June Gloom". Todd and myself are camped in the handicapped spot in a parking lot on Soledad Canyon Road. I think it's a meth spot. Plus the super bright moon, trains, dogs and coyotes. Good times. Only have ten miles left for tomorrow. Finally heading vaguely north again after days of heading primarily west.

Swiss cheese socks and that guy who does that thing I find amusing. Yeah, That's it...

DAY TWENTY-TWO, May 31, 29.1 Miles
At mile 413.1
Loads of ups and downs. Some gross water. Worn the bottoms of a pair of socks down to nothing. Trail magic soda. Not much happened, just walked. Spent a bunch of time on or crossing Angeles Crest Highway. It's a great drive.

Worst you got?

DAY TWENTY-ONE, May 30, 14.5 Miles
At mile 384
Had a stellar breakfast with Gantz and Shadow. Huge. Ray took us to the trail head, I caught Todd after about ten minutes, good timing, hadn't seen him since I left Big Bear. Had a big, switchbacky climb, 3000ft, to the summit of Baden-Powell which was really nice, if it had been a clearer day the views would have been very impressive. Being a Saturday and being fairly close to LA it was super busy which I actually kind of enjoy. It started to rain(?), then hail, then rained again for the next couple of hours, fairly big storm to the north by the looks of it. Rain is nice for a change, but a pain all the same. Decided to stop early and camp at Little Jimmy, "notorious" for bears. Yes. And it decided to stop raining anyway. Nice to cook with others in daylight rather than alone in the dark. Loads of scout groups about. The rain has turned all the dust on me and my pack to mud. Joy.

Thanks! I fear Dolphins.

DAY TWENTY, May 29, 13.3 Miles
At mile 369.5
Really tired this morning, not much energy. Last night something came crash, crash, crashing down to where we were camping then crunch, crunch, crunching across the gravel just down the hill. I feared the worst. Then I saw the silhouette of a buck deer in the moonlight on the ridge. Amazing. Got to the highway a little before midday and got a hitch off the first car. Wrightwood is beyond friendly and really nice. Had lunch at the Yodeler, talked Rugby! Yes! Stayed with ultra nice trail angels Ray and Susan. Best trail town yet.