DAY ONE-FOURTEEN, August 31, 0 Miles
At mile 2476.3
Here I am at Hiker Haven (http://dinsmoreshikerhaven.com/). Last zero, second last town stop, 190 miles to go. Back on trail tomorrow, so utterly sick of being on this computer updating this journal so I'll write a bunch when I'm done.
Monday, August 31, 2009
And then. I fell. Over.
DAY ONE-THIRTEEN, August 30, 30.5 Miles
At mile 2476.3
It was hard, I was tired, but I got to the highway by 5pm. Barely had to raise my thumb to get a hitch. Down to the Dinsmores Hikers Haven. It is one of the greatest places on or off the trail. Finally caught that no-zero taking Gantz character.
At mile 2476.3
It was hard, I was tired, but I got to the highway by 5pm. Barely had to raise my thumb to get a hitch. Down to the Dinsmores Hikers Haven. It is one of the greatest places on or off the trail. Finally caught that no-zero taking Gantz character.
Mr! You're on fire! Oh! I feel a theme coming on...
DAY ONE-TWELVE, August 29, 21.6 Miles (plus 13 on detour)
At mile 2445.8
The detour, despite being extra miles, was very cruisy. Particularly the well graded Pete's Lake Trail, worked out by lunch that I could still probably make Stevens by late Sunday afternoon so that's the plan. Curse me. Very smoky and on the other side of the range the smoke and clouds spill over the low points like waterfalls. So amazing. These rangers are friendly, and conversations are time consuming. But I love it.
At mile 2445.8
The detour, despite being extra miles, was very cruisy. Particularly the well graded Pete's Lake Trail, worked out by lunch that I could still probably make Stevens by late Sunday afternoon so that's the plan. Curse me. Very smoky and on the other side of the range the smoke and clouds spill over the low points like waterfalls. So amazing. These rangers are friendly, and conversations are time consuming. But I love it.
No dancing, fire opened the door again! again! again!
DAY ONE-ELEVEN, August 28, 20.8 Miles (plus 8 on detour)
At mile 2417 (sort of)
Rushed down to Snoqualmie Pass through trashy snowless ski runs desperate for the cover of fresh white. The pass is a ski resort on an Interstate all of an hour from Seattle, so it'll be rather busy in just a few short months. Everyone there was ultra friendly, picked up my resupply and had a mighty breakfast which included my first cup of coffee ever (mostly sugar and milk). Topped off with some fried chicken and Dr Pepper (not making that mistake again) and I was ready to enter one of the best sections of the trail. Stopped of at the beyond friendly USFS office to learn about a small re-route around a fire, no problem. Big climb off the Interstate was cruisy on the awesome power of Dr Pepper. Heaps of other hikers about, it's a justifiably popular area, massive views of Rainier and where I'd just been and the imposing peaks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. This is the Washington I was expecting and I love it. Then I came across the re-route. The new, improved re-route. Seems the fire had exploded during the afternoon and the only way around was a couple of trails and roads, 22 miles in all, only 7 miles of trail are currently closed. That makes my already slightly pushing it plan to make Stevens Pass on Sunday afternoon very difficult. Walked the first part down the overgrown but well used Mineral Creek Trail and a couple of miles of road before I decided it wasn't worth pushing and set up camp. Things change on the trail, so be it. It's blowy outside.
At mile 2417 (sort of)
Rushed down to Snoqualmie Pass through trashy snowless ski runs desperate for the cover of fresh white. The pass is a ski resort on an Interstate all of an hour from Seattle, so it'll be rather busy in just a few short months. Everyone there was ultra friendly, picked up my resupply and had a mighty breakfast which included my first cup of coffee ever (mostly sugar and milk). Topped off with some fried chicken and Dr Pepper (not making that mistake again) and I was ready to enter one of the best sections of the trail. Stopped of at the beyond friendly USFS office to learn about a small re-route around a fire, no problem. Big climb off the Interstate was cruisy on the awesome power of Dr Pepper. Heaps of other hikers about, it's a justifiably popular area, massive views of Rainier and where I'd just been and the imposing peaks in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. This is the Washington I was expecting and I love it. Then I came across the re-route. The new, improved re-route. Seems the fire had exploded during the afternoon and the only way around was a couple of trails and roads, 22 miles in all, only 7 miles of trail are currently closed. That makes my already slightly pushing it plan to make Stevens Pass on Sunday afternoon very difficult. Walked the first part down the overgrown but well used Mineral Creek Trail and a couple of miles of road before I decided it wasn't worth pushing and set up camp. Things change on the trail, so be it. It's blowy outside.
Lord of the Conchords.
DAY ONE-TEN, August 27, 36.2 Miles
At mile 2396.2
Hot sun, hidden climbs and a never ending switch between the square mile of old growth and square mile of clear cut. As I approached the realm of overnighters I spent half my time picking up trash. Shame.
At mile 2396.2
Hot sun, hidden climbs and a never ending switch between the square mile of old growth and square mile of clear cut. As I approached the realm of overnighters I spent half my time picking up trash. Shame.
Flight of the Rings.
DAY ONE-OH-NINE, August 26, 32.7 Miles
At mile 2360
Slow morning to the impressive Chinok Pass area, over the highway past another Sheep Lake (I swear, there's been 46 of them) and up to the view filled Sourdough Gap. Passed perhaps the biggest ski area yet, Crystal Mountain, still erie and I still love these ghost town, snowless ski resorts in the summer. Trail tread is wicked sandy at the moment, and the many holes in my shoes, socks and gaiters make matters worse (I usually wear these items until they're completely falling apart. Completely. John VonHof would cry if he saw what I wear) add to that the equestrian, packer and elk hooves tearing it up, no fun. Currently in a part of Washington covered in dirt roads, clear cuts and wildfire scars. At least the Huckleberries like it.
At mile 2360
Slow morning to the impressive Chinok Pass area, over the highway past another Sheep Lake (I swear, there's been 46 of them) and up to the view filled Sourdough Gap. Passed perhaps the biggest ski area yet, Crystal Mountain, still erie and I still love these ghost town, snowless ski resorts in the summer. Trail tread is wicked sandy at the moment, and the many holes in my shoes, socks and gaiters make matters worse (I usually wear these items until they're completely falling apart. Completely. John VonHof would cry if he saw what I wear) add to that the equestrian, packer and elk hooves tearing it up, no fun. Currently in a part of Washington covered in dirt roads, clear cuts and wildfire scars. At least the Huckleberries like it.
Washington, or my love of the big, awkward, uselessly informative signs.
DAY ONE-OH-EIGHT, August 25, 28.1 Miles
At mile 2327.3
Cruised down to White Pass to pick up my resupply box. It is amazing. Almost too much food in it, I fear it may be the food intended for Stehekin but for the moment I am happy with my Ashland-self. Plenty of junky food at the store, some wonderful, some instantly regretted, completely forgot to get some Dr Pepper or Ice-cream! Oh my! About ten thru-hikers there most were going into Packwood, the nearest town, so as quickly as I got into a cluster of thru-hikers, I'm right back out on my own again. I am almost starting to prefer the extended periods of solitude and I always end up coming across someone during my day. The trail head was ultra confusing and wasted my precious time. The start of this section takes you through lake littered, flat forest. Beautiful, but almost identical to previous sections. Although Sand Lake did captivate me momentarily. As I made a big, slow climb, the trail brought me out of the forest and up into a sub-alpine wonderland. I guess "best/most beautiful/favourite so far" are overused to the point of meaningless but, well. This trail is amazing. The clouds playing around Rainier in the afternoon sun was a joy to see. Ran out of time, and camped before my planned destination at a very nice spot.
To slow down or not. An almost universal thru-hiker dilemma. I can do these miles I'm doing, I can finish early September, under four months, a nice tick in that goal box. Or I could slow my pace, relax, take an extra couple of days. Or weeks. But I like hiking at this pace, and thru-hiking, for me at least, is different to, say, an overnight. My body is so very accustomed to this, and I enjoy the daily physical challenge. And it's so big, too big, to "appreciate" everything. I hate the idea of "appreciating" anyway, it's almost as though you're trying to hard to enjoy what is simply enjoyable. Being here is enough.
At mile 2327.3
Cruised down to White Pass to pick up my resupply box. It is amazing. Almost too much food in it, I fear it may be the food intended for Stehekin but for the moment I am happy with my Ashland-self. Plenty of junky food at the store, some wonderful, some instantly regretted, completely forgot to get some Dr Pepper or Ice-cream! Oh my! About ten thru-hikers there most were going into Packwood, the nearest town, so as quickly as I got into a cluster of thru-hikers, I'm right back out on my own again. I am almost starting to prefer the extended periods of solitude and I always end up coming across someone during my day. The trail head was ultra confusing and wasted my precious time. The start of this section takes you through lake littered, flat forest. Beautiful, but almost identical to previous sections. Although Sand Lake did captivate me momentarily. As I made a big, slow climb, the trail brought me out of the forest and up into a sub-alpine wonderland. I guess "best/most beautiful/favourite so far" are overused to the point of meaningless but, well. This trail is amazing. The clouds playing around Rainier in the afternoon sun was a joy to see. Ran out of time, and camped before my planned destination at a very nice spot.
To slow down or not. An almost universal thru-hiker dilemma. I can do these miles I'm doing, I can finish early September, under four months, a nice tick in that goal box. Or I could slow my pace, relax, take an extra couple of days. Or weeks. But I like hiking at this pace, and thru-hiking, for me at least, is different to, say, an overnight. My body is so very accustomed to this, and I enjoy the daily physical challenge. And it's so big, too big, to "appreciate" everything. I hate the idea of "appreciating" anyway, it's almost as though you're trying to hard to enjoy what is simply enjoyable. Being here is enough.
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