Tuesday, July 28, 2009

Around the world in...

DAY EIGHTY, July 28, 0 Miles
At mile 1606.3
Everyone kind of left me this morning, I'm the only hiker here for the night. It has been nice spending time on my own, yet still surrounded by people and with plenty to keep me occupied other than my same tired thoughts. Some new thoughts to stimulate me for the next few days. As much internet as I need (so here I am, right now, with my journal the most up-to-date it's ever been) and an extensive library of books and magazines I could waste days on. Did some town chores, but mostly wasted the day away wonderfully. Once again, this place is wonderful, hikers are given the games room space as practically their own and there's such a friendly, positive and casual atmosphere amongst these people who have such selfless hearts (http://www.cctg.org/). Looking forward to getting back on trail at some point tomorrow (getting out of town seems as difficult as getting in was), not looking forward to 54 miles of peanut MM's. Hopefully I have enough, actually, 1.8kg may be far too much.

These echos would end.

DAY SEVENTY-NINE, July 27, 14 Miles
At mile 1606.3
Never really got comfortable last night until the temperature really dropped and those persistent, humming mosquito's finally called it a night. Being on this saddle gave me a sunrise to rival last nights set though, so it was hard not to start with a smile. Was fairly quickly removed by more hidden climbing, nothing like going up on what the guidebook calls a "gentle descent" (perhaps the gentlest form of descent is ascent?). Caught Indy (who had pushed on last night for water) and were caught by Iceaxe (how does he get behind me all the time?) in quick succession and we walked together all morning. Came across a couple of goats, then a woman who as Iceaxe puts it could have been Mother Nature herself, and her four month old. Then her companion and the rest of their eighteen goats and two dogs appeared out of the bushes. Turns out they cruise around all summer, four gallons of goat milk a day, plus cheese, jerked goat, some grains and whatever edibles they come across. Amazing. The goats milk tasted so good (surprisingly so in fact). Beautiful people leading such a beautifully simple life. Definitely the most surreal moment of the trail (although Donna Saufley having Pendulum blasting at Hiker Heaven is still up there). Got to the road about midday, and found Atlas there (his journal is about the best I've read by the way, on Trailjournals.com, he carries two pieces of re-bar taped together as a walking stick so as not to lose his gymnast muscle), ended up being about ninety hot minutes before we were picked up, by an English guy who'd lived in Christchurch, of course. It's a pretty quiet road and ninety minutes seems to be on the short end of the waiting line. Etna is the hyped up "best town on the PCT". Yes and no, but hey, personal opinion etc etc etc etc. It's very small town America, the soda fountain was cool. Staying at the CCTG which is a sort of hostel for a not-for-profit who do AIDS prevention in Africa and Latin America. There's currently about twenty Brazilian and South Korean students here (18-22) and a couple of American team leaders. They're ultra hiker friendly and have everything we need. It's definitely the best place I've stayed at (not the most comfortable, but who needs comfort?). There are a few hikers about, had some food (two half gallon ice-creams for $4. Oh. My. Wondouous. Yes. Yes) and did precious little else. I heard from Wild Child that Shit monkey got off at Castella with a stress fracture. That sucks. One of the students was giving a presentation on patriotism, which a couple of us sat in on and was very enjoyable. As was the follow up conversation. Very hot down here, zero tomorrow.

In fashion, what does it mean to accessorise?

DAY SEVENTY-EIGHT, July 26, 33.7 Miles
At mile 1592.3
Iceaxe came past this morning just as I was packing up, I must of passed him at some point. We walked all morning chatting, completely unaware of where we were, water, up, down, nothing. It was so great. I slipped behind in an afternoon filled with hidden climbs and tired legs. Leap-frogged with Indy (first new face for a while) most of the afternoon too, I was very happy to reach another nice saddle to camp and view another huge sunset, just at the boundary of the Russian Wilderness. The mosquito's are determined to ruin my night though, currently regretting not setting up my tent.

All of the joy of young people in love is conveyed in this delightfully simple melody...

DAY SEVENTY-SEVEN, July 25, 36.9 Miles
At mile 1558.6
Excited this morning to see how far I could go, 35 miles? The first couple of miles were glorious, perhaps my favourite little section yet. Mt Shasta, Castle Crags and Lassen Peak, together in view, with the previous five or so miles of trail tread crawling up below the Crags and around, round, round to my feet. I stopped every few steps to look around, no photo could ever do it justice, and I didn't even try. Very easy going today, gentle ups to the section high point, alas, not enough shade for lunch, so I continued to Deadfall Lakes and its crowded shorelines. It's all of five very flat miles from a paved road, and being a Saturday, well yeah. Four guys in three tents and a very expansive campsite were taking up the majority of the shade. I was as far away as was shadily possible, but from the looks I got... I guess my presence was ruining their 'wilderness experience'. Rishikesh is waiting, gentlemen. There were some ultra friendly folk about, but it was nice to cross the road and go the opposite direction from them all. Felt great all afternoon, came down to a saddle, listening to Skeleton Boy, with all the energy in the world and made it my camp for the night. It was only 7.30 but I enjoy having an hour of daylight to relax in whenever possible and my legs had easily taken me further than I had planned. Was gifted about half an hour of brilliant sunset. One of the best days on the trail yet. All is well.

No water for mystery holes.

DAY SEVENTY SIX, July 24, 20 Miles
At mile 1521.7
It was rather hot last night. I was rather pissed off this morning. Why? There's silver glitter on my tent? No, what is that? Is that a hole? Are they holes? THEY ARE HOLES! THERE'S LIKE FIFTY OF THEM! ALL OVER MY TARPTENT!! (this means if it rains heavily, I get wet) What did that? Wait, ants? There's ants all over. There's ants in here! THERE'S ANTS AROUND THE HOLES!

ANTS ARE EATING MY TENT.
!!!!11!111!!!!1!!!!!1!!!

Honestly, it's the only explanation that makes sense. No fires, no acid rain, no knife throwing, no idea. Now I need to buy a new shelter. Son of. There are at least fifty small (1mm diameter) holes all over my tent. This one's for you Dunning. Or Unsolved Mysteries. Or the CIA. So I walked all furiously down to the Interstate. Two choices, hitch on the Interstate (illegal) or walk four miles along the train tracks up to Dunsmuir (no damn way). So I try, knowing it's not going to work, to thumb down a ride. I guess Highway Patrol got a call for a "Pedestrian on Interstate", because after about a quarter hour a patrol car comes down the off-ramp, up the on-ramp, straight at me.
"You just off the trail?"
"Yeah"
"Where you going?"
"Dunsmuir"
"I'll take you, don't want you getting hurt up here"
Don't hitch on the Interstate kids. Big thanks to the Officer for being cool with everything, guess I'm not the first. And I have the foreigner card up my sleeve. Dunsmuir was pretty dead, got a bus to Mt Shasta City, which is very nice. Rite Aid had 2GB SD cards for $50. The assistant suggested I try Radio Shack, where I got two for $20. Problem solved sort of. Shasta is really nice, but everyone assumes I am homeless (at least, that's my own assumption...). Seriously, my beard needs to go, it looks pretty stupid. Best second hand bookstore of all history, shame I don't want to carry 10kg of paper. The bus ride back to Dunsmuir was full of creepy folk, a manlady, meth addicts, and a mumbly sarcastic dude desperate for attention. Big news story of the day was a Transgender mayor from a town in Oregon being criticised for dressing provocatively. I know. I don't even know where to start. So I won't. But, please, do with it what you wish. Got a hitch back to the trail head super easy. Hot 3800ft climb, run out of water (again? How are you 1500 in man?), found a nice little campsite. Castle Crags are completely, amazingly, massively beautiful.

Take it and run.

DAY SEVENTY-FIVE, July 23, 25.7 Miles
At mile 1501.7
So my ankle is fine. Magic. Got a late start, due to me only having to go 25 miles today, easy going but I was slow. Wee bit more climbing than in recent days. I'm getting a bit sick of my own brain, if ever a random thought comes into my head I end up spending an hour on it. Like the time I tried to, and almost succeed in, remembering every campsite of the hike so far. Better than thinking about the same things again. Bit of Poison Oak around, I've either been very lucky and not brushed against any or I don't react. Either way it's not actually as prevalent as certain people make it out to be. Predictably inefficient trail this afternoon, apparently the old route took an hour to the Interstate where it now takes three. Then again, it was the guidebook telling me this. I really don't mind anyway. And you get some outstanding views of Shasta and Castle Crags. Made camp ultra early and was a little bored on my own.

1500 MILES!
Getting there...

Not this again again again again again again again...

DAY SEVENTY-FOUR, July 22, 31.7 Miles
At mile 1476
Very very slow this morning. Hot day, but plenty shady so it wasn't too bad. Mt Shasta is now right there. And it is one beautiful mountain, 14,162ft with nothing around it. Who needs Lassen? My plan is to go into Shasta City, email Donna Saufley (the name attached to the thru-camera) and buy an SD card as a temporary replacement until an arrangement can be come too. I guess handing around an SD card for hikers to put into their own camera and take a few photos is somewhat easier than having another camera. Or maybe I just think that because I'm the fool who managed to break the camera. Got to a fairly nice, established campsite, with a toilet! And a river! I can sit down! And be kind of clean! And hydrated! !!!! My ankle hurts again, massively, in a different spot. Dangnit.

And that is why you don't do that here.

DAY SEVENTY-THREE, July 21, 33.2 Miles
At mile 1444.3
Got into Burney Falls in great time, gorged and topped up my food enough to get me to Etna. With chocolate. You know, that stuff that melts (milts) in the hot, hot, hot sun. I was the only thru-hiker there and it's a pretty touristy spot because the Burney Falls are incredible. Point is, I'm pretty sure everyone thought I was homeless, which I kind of am, but that's not the point. I loudly asked for the PCT REGISTER, but still, homeless stares. Still a distinct lack of water in many parts around here. 10, 12, 15 miles without is fairly common. And yet I still managed to drop the thru-camera in Rock Creek. I know. Of all the times and all the things to drop. A camera that doesn't belong to me. Massive sigh. I'm fairly certain it's screwed completely, hopefully the memory card isn't. Now, what to do about this.

HCRHCRHCRHCR...

DAY SEVENTY-TWO,July 20, 33.4 Miles
At mile 1411.1
Didn't get started as early as I would have preferred, but it's all good, today was Hat Creek Rim day. One of these sections of trail that builds fear, panic and over-preparation. Basically it's about a twenty mile stretch of trail right on the edge of a plateau about a thousand feet above the Hat Creek Valley. It's flat, hot (NorCal is proving to be consistently hotter than SoCal can ever dream to be) and largely shadeless (and most of the little shade there was was annihilated in a 1987 wildfire). Plus there is no water, in fact it's in a 50 mile section with one natural water source, there are two water caches for hikers (thankyou, again and always) but it's back to cameling, desert style. And, as usual, it's really not that bad, sure it was hot and sunny, but it is summer. I tend not to worry about these parts of the trail that have a reputation, it can be difficult to separate bullshit from fact, even the guidebook is full of it, the best thing to do is just hike the damn trail, that's what we're here to do anyway. Point is, yeah, it wasn't the best day on the trail, but it ended. Like every day ends. Like every climb ends. Like every poorly laid out, overgrown section ends. And at 9pm, sitting in my tent, I have a smile on my face and I'm happy to be where I am. Doug almost, almost got skunked. Dang. Either way.

In the nervous light of sunday.

DAY SEVENTY-ONE, July 19, 0 Miles
At mile 1377.7
I swear I was going to leave today. It got to about 2.30, I realised it was not going to happen, why not have a day of doing nothing.

I guess this is a wee bit of a transitional period for my hike, with all of my hiking friends either off the trail or somewhere behind me, so few ahead, and my intention to start doing bigger mileages, I expect to spend a lot of time on my own. I know I'm only a little over halfway, but Manning Park seems so within reach now and I have the momentum and desire to just keep hiking till I get there. Of course, I see myself wishing I had taken it easy and spent more time on the trail once finished but you can't have everything. I have decided I want to finish my thru in under four months, no real reasoning behind that, but it's a goal and it gives me a date to aim for, that being September 9. I guess I will be spending a lot of time with my brain.

Also, because the physical and emotional challenge of the PCT are not enough, in my weeks spent with Hamburgerass and Shit Monkey, a number of additional challenges have been set.
  • The world famous Seiad Valley Pancake Challenge (ask google). As if I wasn't going to attempt that. With Shit Monkey expecting to get there a few days before me it is likely to be a distance/time affected challenge between ourselves. Those pancakes are ridiculous, and somewhat frightening.
  • The 50 Mile Day. Not looking forward to that.
  • The 40 Mile One Candy Challenge. Pick one candy, no chocolate, that's all you eat for forty miles. Stupidly brilliant. Except. We couldn't come up with anything to actually do it with (I'm not ruining Skittles for the rest of my life), so chocolate was back in, Shit Monkey picked Reices Pieces, I've gone for Peanut MM's. And he did it. Between Truckee and Sierra City. Now I have to do it, and the only appropriate section is the 50 something miles between Etna and Seiad Valley. Awesome...
  • The Four Day One Meal Challenge. Pick one meal, that's all you eat for four days. Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks. So it's Pop-Tarts and Cheese (well, you come up with something better).

Yeah, twenty-two year old men.

Go the back way, you know you're not allowed in here.

DAY SEVENTY, July18, 21.1 Miles
At mile 1377.7
Got an early start and cruised into Old Station about midday. Which was easy because it was so flat, viewless and boring, what a waste of a trail through beautiful Lassen National Park that was. Old Station is the home of the amazing Firefly and Firewalker at Hiker Hideaway. Another of the wonderful Trail Angels that make this trail such a pleasure. Not too many hikers here at the moment, I guess I really did pass 250 thru-hikers and hardly saw any of them, oh well. Shit Monkey has left on his quest, I don't think I'm going make either Ashland or Etna in time, so I won't be seeing any more of him on the trail which sucks as he's been an awesome hiking companion.

Sunday, July 19, 2009

Just half a turn and there's your worm.

DAY SIXTY-NINE, July 17, 20.8 Miles
At mile 1356.6
Took an hour for myself and Shit Monkey to get a hitch out of Chester this morning, planned to hike forty miles, starting at 10.30. About three miles in we both realised it was not going to happen, so Drakesbad will. Very very hot and rather dry, I really have to stop underestimating how much water to carry. Drakesbad Guest Ranch is amazing. The owners, Ed and Billie, are so hiker friendly, they let us shower and hang out in the hot spring pool, and feed us for a massive discount. Enough good things cannot be said about that place, www.drakesbad.com. And the food is unbelievable. Planned to night hike ten miles with Shit Monkey, we got about three. Night hiking under tree cover on a nothing moon is horrible. I have acquired the thru-camera. Take a few photos and pass it on is the idea, except, nobody will take it.

A carefully engineered, high quality, durable product.

DAY SIXTY-EIGHT, July 16, 10.3 Miles
At mile 1335.8
Whipped out my miles in 2.5 hours, including passing the official, but not actual halfway point. Two months and six days, looks like I'll be done in under four months at this rate. Took about 40 minutes to get a hitch into Chester, not too bad (and I discover later 40 minutes is a short wait), but it's rather frustrating when there is so much traffic on the road. The guy who picked me up was extremely helpful though, and as I was walking aimlessly, frustrated around town, Meredith (Piper's Mom) showed up and all was well again. Her and husband Lowell are the local trail angels, and are completely amazing. She left me in town to do my chores, internet, post office, AYCE pizza (they were not ready for me at that place). I was in the bathroom at the supermarket and herd shuffling and muffling from the stall beside me, turns out it was Shit Monkey who had recognised my gaiters. Awesome to see him again, he's been doing forty mile days to catch me up and to get to Ashland. I smashed him in our half gallon challenge (ice-cream, an Appalachian Trail tradition that I am more than happy to do on the PCT). Piper's Mom picked us up and took us to their house for the night, fed us and Sleepwalker dinner, gave us couches and the lounge floor, then breakfast. Huge thankyous. So I have to decide what to do. Option one is say bye to Shit Monkey and keep going at current pace. Option two is hike with him to Ashland, a little under 400 miles in 8.5 days (He only has till the 25th and planned Crater Lake, another 150 miles, but decided on Ashland). Option three is Etna, 270 miles in 7.5 days, then bus to Ashland to meet him and Hamburgerass to hang out in Ashland for the weekend, back to Etna and onward. Leaning toward two at the moment. I'm going to die, but I shall try. I want to stick with him if I can, and we have the Seiad Valley Panckae Challenge.

I want flies, mosquito's and carpenter ants to fight to the death. And all lose.

DAY SIXTY-SEVEN, July 15, 30 Miles
At mile 1325.5
Kind of a frustratingly slow morning out of Chips Creek Canyon, got to a spring just before lunch which will be my last on trail water for 24 miles. Fairly hot again, fair number of thru-hikers again, definitely in the herd now, although I have been told it's the front so I skipped over a lot of people without seeing them. About two miles from camp, hot, sweaty, dirty and tired, Hoppípolla came on, I emerged from some trees right into a view of Lassen Peak. That was pretty special. Lassen is one beautiful lump of a volcano. Flies and ants are currently fighting for my hatred.

"A!" He'd say, then "B", "C" would usually follow...

DAY SIXTY-SIX, July 14, 33.7 Miles
At mile 1295.5
Wind picked up loads last night, all dusty in my tent dangnit. Cruisy morning, hitting some long waterless stretches at the moment. It's even a little worse than SoCal, especially because I'm a little blase about them and really should carry more. Starting to see more thru-hikers again, there's this accordion effect around towns as hikers compress together. Very hot afternoon, about the hottest I've had so far, very overgrown trail and a long, fairly steep descent into Beldon. Pretty horrible. Apparently I have to be on the watch for Poison Oak. I either do not react to it, or there hasn't been any, all good. I got one of my Nepali flushes on the way down, almost passed out. Had some Dr Pepper and ice-cream at Beldon Resort and felt a lot better. Climb out was pretty rough as well, camped at the filthy former Williams Cabin site. I believe that is officially the end of the Sierra Nevada Range.

He'd be done by now.

DAY SIXTY-FIVE, July 13, 34.3 Miles
At mile 1261.8
I had a Deer crashing around my tent all night, thanks for that. It was basically down for 24 miles to the Middle Fork Feather River Bridge, then back up for 10 miles. I'm liking the up better than the down at the moment. Saw the first snake I've seen in 550 miles. Didn't really see anyone all day until I was almost done, then had two half-hour long conversations. Still made camp and was in tent before dark, just the way I like it. Campsite is ultra nice. Finally. I don't remember any new names anymore.

A less practical new route.

DAY SIXTY-FOUR, July 12, 29.9 Miles
At mile 1227.5
Brief storm early this morning, but only cloud cover and brief attempts at rain for the rest of the day. Got back on trail about 8.30 and climbed the first 3.4 miles in an hour on town food. The wind was annoying but the Sierra Buttes are pretty spectacular. I've definitely increased my average walking speed, doing thirty miles in a day with plenty of time to spare, rather than having to hike to almost dark. Data book told me there was no water for a while so I slid painfully down a steep bank to get a couple of litres, getting some nice cuts in the process, only to cross about five streams before making camp. Nice.

Saturday, July 18, 2009

Tell me what happens now.

DAY SIXTY-THREE, July 11, 5 Miles
At mile 1197.6
Cruised to highway 49 and got a mile long hitch to Sierra City. Went to the Red Moose for breakfast. They have this Cinnamoose. It is unbelievable. A Cinnamon roll piled high with ice-cream, cream and caramel. Yes. Returned for lunch, cleaned in a above-ground swimming pool. Very expensive resupply, but a very nice town. Triple Gut Buster Burger and Blackberry shake dinner was incredible. Fun hanging around with the Trek For Troops guys all day.

The curious habit of PCT hikers avoiding stepping over treefall.

DAY SIXTY-TWO, July 10, 29.6 Miles
At mile 1192.6
Left the hut and the hum of the I80 with a nights worth of wood fire smoke in my nostrils. Easy day, only planned to go 27 miles, it's amazing how easy that seems in the morning compared to an intended 30+. Walked a little further to get to a nice creek side campsite with Matt (Hamster) and Paul (The Escalator). Check their website www.trekfortroops.com, super nice guys and about the quickest hikers I've seen.

I can make anything awkward.

DAY SIXTY-ONE, July 9, 31.2 Miles
At mile 1163
Good morning, hiked well, bagged Tinker Knob (only third for the hike so far, perhaps I should make more of an effort). Had lunch in one of the Sierra Club huts, reading a National Geographic article on Tongariro NP, wee bit homesick. Passing through another ski resort and below it hit the worst (albeit small) patch of snow yet. The afternoon dragged on and forever. Donner Pass was nothing like I imagine it was in 1846 (ask wikipedia). Passed under Interstate 80 and onto Peter Grubb Hut. Had a great night there with Paul and Matt from trekfortroops.com and a family.

Thursday, July 16, 2009

Quiet EP

DAY SIXTY, July 8, 31.2 Miles
At mile 1131.8
Hardly saw anyone all day, especially after lunch, except a very friendly southbounder. We exchanged stories and advices. Had some insane ninja mosquito's this morning that would leap out from behind trees onto me. Bastards. Out of Desolation as quickly as I got in. Camped right on the Pacific Crest.

With all the dollars I saved...

DAY FIFTY-NINE, July 7, 8.4 Miles
At mile 1100.6
I could have stayed in that room all day watching the Michael Jackson memorial for no particular reason. Got the cheapest resupply yet at the food outlet across the street. Got back on the trail about 4. Now in Desolation Wilderness, which is quite beautiful. I planned to go a little further but could not bring myself to walk past Lake Aloha. Had a nice chat and pizza dinner. Windy. NO MORE BEAR CANISTER. Now I get to sleep with my food again. The bears have to go through me. And I'm sure they would. Easily.

For five dollars, yes, the door is ajar.

DAY FIFTY-EIGHT, July 6, 20 Miles
At mile 1092.3
Scott Williamson and Adam Bradley past this morning as Shit Monkey and I packed up. They're on a speed record attempt of, I think, 65 days. All the best to them. Very impressive hikers. Basically got to Highway 50 as quickly as I could and there decided to treat myself and go into South Lake Tahoe, while Shit Monkey heads to Echo Lake to wait for Hamburgerass (damn their long names). Motel 6, nice room all to meself, pizza, ice-cream and Dr Pepper, watching MTV's Fat Camp (incredible) and the surprisingly good Click. Holy wow am I ever skinny. All my rock climbing "muscle" is completely gone. And my tan lines are hilarious.

Your odyssey continues what?

DAY FIFTY-SEVEN, July 5, 31.9 Miles
At mile1072.3
Came across Buster and Bluebird this morning, only about five minutes from where we had camped. Really good to see them again, seem to be doing well. Felt sluggish and tired most of the day. Volcanoes!!! Or what's left of them anyway.

Werewolf? Now! Wah Wah Wah.

DAY FIFTY-SIX, July 4 (Independence Day?), 30.4 Miles
At mile 1040.4
Once again, beautiful spot to camp. Very nice to wake up where we did. And, oh! The joys of cowboy camping! Despite the wind. Plenty of ridge walking, a rarity on this here sidle-trail. Some "lethal snow slopes" (thanks for that, guidebook) were far too inviting to not glissade down. Unfortunately some nervous braking and endless decision making negated any time it would have saved. And I twice almost lost Penn, disaster averted. Owl had the 'Sonora Pass Cafe' going at the trail head (first road in many a mile), fruit, tea and cake. Perfect. Hung around there for a couple of hours with Shit Monkey and Hamburgerass. Pretty cruisy afternoon, just a lot of it. Have a nice, secluded camp that got attacked by a panicked deer. No mosquito's!!!

Vanessa Carlton and The Proclaimers couldn't drown out the roar of 500,000 mosquito's.

DAY FIFTY-FIVE, July 3, 23.9 Miles
At mile 1010
Some very nice lakes this morning, shame the mosquito's were out in force, it must be the hatch. Crossing meadows is dangerous, I cannot begin to describe how many there are. Pretty awful morning actually, not much fun. Amazingly, by lunch I had passed through the worst, in fact almost as soon as the trail leaves Yosemite Wilderness, they're gone. Ha. Whenever squat nature calls I walk off trail a bit, of course. However, as discussed with other hikers, it's always so so much closer to the trail when you return than it seemed when you left. Often disturbingly, visibly close. Such an incident happened today. I was sure I was 100 metres off trail. But the trail had curved around to be no more than five open, very exposed metres from my spot of choice. This, I did not realise, until Mandown walked past. Luckily I was done. But curse you trail. Curse you. Climbed back above 10,000 and cowboy camped for the first time in forever. It was actually one of the best campsites so far, on a ridge top with about six others, views everywhere and one mighty fine sunset.

1000 Miles!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So much more to go...

Smokey The Bear? What's that got to do with... Oh, I see...

DAY FIFTY-FOUR, July 2, 25.8 Miles
At mile 986.1
Last night's dinner went straight through me. Horrible. You may think that you didn't need to know that piece of information, but it is important. All will reveal itself. Saw a bear, the first, about a half mile from camp. A brown Black Bear (yes, a brown Black Bear, I know what I'm talking about), it was stretching or doing yoga. Preparing for a long day of thieving pic-i-nic baskets. Quite the up down day. Up 200ft, down 1200, up 1600, down 2600, up 1600, down 1300, up 800, down 1000, up 1200, down 500. Yeah, it was horrible. And the mosquito's. Even when I'm walk-running they still catch and attack me, crazy. Had a waste of a side-trip to Benson Lake. Pretty awful campsite, when I put up my tent, it smelled like last nights dinner, which Shit Monkey complimented, until I told him why it smelled like last nights dinner. Outstanding.

Nappy water plastic.

DAY FIFTY-THREE, July 1, 17.6 Miles
At mile 960.3
Solid but expensive breakfast, left later than I wanted. Loads of day hikers about, mosquito's too. Probably missing the best parts of Yosemite.

Turn your ships around.

DAY FIFTY-TWO, June 30, 17 Miles
At mile 942.7
Got some very solid sleep last night, and I felt wonderful this morning. Magic. Plenty of Coyotes going nuts as Todd and I climbed up to Donahue Pass, the last time the trail is above 11,000ft and our entry point into Yosemite National Park. There's hardly any pain in my ankle unless I really stretch it out, no idea what that was about, but very glad it's all but disappeared. Very flat and wee bit rainy into Tuolumne Meadows. Fair number of JMT hikers heading south and a bunch of PCT'ers at the Tuolumne store. My bounce box has returned to me, and I'm now on the second of the three guidebooks, progress. Todd left for his wedding, that's the end of us I guess, mere moments later Shit Monkey arrived, followed by Hamburgerass. Had a great afternoon attempting (but failing) to take down the stores supply of It's Its (ice-cream sandwich's), followed by a great night with Shit Monkey, Hamburgerass, Gabe, Carlos and Willie.

The day the what did where?

DAY FIFTY-ONE, June 29, 26.4 Miles
At mile 925.7
Got down to Reds Meadows pretty comfortably, although I had to warm up my ankle. Had a nice breakfast, some ice-cream and a super fantastic one day resupply. There are a bunch of day walks and their walkers around, Devils Postpile and Minaret Falls in particular, so plenty of people around. Left the John Muir Trail (temporarily), it splits of the PCT for the next (can't remember) miles and I want to stick with the PCT. Started feeling very tired and very sore on the long sidley climb after lunch. Gabe and Carlos (The Runners) caught up with me and I tagged behind them chatting for about a half hour, which was pleasantly distracting. Pretty well died after that, thanks to Todd for keeping an eye on me and camping early. Perhaps it's my diet? Maybe I'm pushing too hard, should probably get myself into Mammoth Lakes tomorrow to rest.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

No no shelter shelter.

DAY FIFTY, June 28, 31.5 Miles
At mile 899.3
Something is wrong with the outside of my left ankle. It sure does hurt, hopefully it's nothing serious. Started off with Bear Ridge this morning, would be pretty horrible coming the other way, although I do my share of climbing anyway. Plenty of fording, constantly wet feet. Came across Shadow a little bit before lunch, it has been a while. The mosquito's were pretty bad all day, must be nearing the hatch, when they are supposedly really bad. Lost Todd after Silver pass, he can fly when he wants too. I followed a sign to Reds Meadow (where we're heading) and despite my suspicions it was the wrong way kept walking, it's hard to stop and check the map when as soon as you do 4367 mosquito's come say hi. When I finally realised my mistake (not too bad, it was actually an easier alternate, just not my PCT) I was about a mile down so I took another trail up to the PCT at Purple Lake, all good. Stopped a mile short of where I wanted thanks to my ankle refusing to continue walking.

Carring the equivalent of my empty pack's weight in Skittles was the best idea I ever had.

DAY FORTY-NINE, June 27, 24.6 Miles
At mile 867.8
Got to the big, bad, notorious, Evolution Creek. Not so tough. Hot climb up Seldon Pass, nice not having to deal with much snow. The Bear Creek crossing was a wee bit hairy, and the mosquito's are pretty bad here tonight.

... Drew their swords and shot each other.

DAY FORTY-EIGHT, June 26, 23.2 Miles
At mile 843.2
Today was all about Muir Pass. Long crappy approach, long, snowy descent. There is a deer hanging out at out most beautiful campsite. Mosquito's have appeared.

Back to back they faced each other...

DAY FORTY-SEVEN, June 25, 25.2 Miles
At mile 820
Nice morning around the lakes, down to Woods Creek bridge then the 4000 foot climb up to Pinchot Pass. Pretty sloggy, very nice below the pass and had lunch on top. Lake Marjore below is beautiful and half frozen over. Could very easily have camped and relaxed there, but yeah. South Fork Kings River was definitely the biggest ford yet, but really not too bad. Guidebook likes to throw out words like "lethal" and "die" when they really aren't necessary. The weather started to turn, clouded over, spots of rain. Todd and me both still wanted to get over Mather Pass as well, so pushed on. Snow and constant fording slow you down so much and despite the quick final scramble to the top it was quite late, and snowing. Plenty of glissading (sit down and slide on the snow) down the other side saved time but got me all cold and wet. Didn't really want to walk in the dark again so camped earlier than planned.

Jump.

DAY FORTY-SIX, June 24, 14.3 Miles (9 Kearsarge)
At mile 794.8
Got a ride pretty easily up Onion Valley, interesting fellow to say the least. Actually, the less said about him the better. But thanks all the same. Carried a Calzone for lunch/dinner which was a pleasure to eat. Pretty lethargic going up Glen Pass, but it was pretty special up there and a super fun descent. Todd got stuck in an endless posthole that tried to eat his shoe. Glissade wherever possible down to Rae Lakes. One of, if not the, nicest camp spot yet, and about the most people too. Swimming was brief and cold.

???

DAY FORTY-FIVE, June 23, 0 Miles
At mile 789.5
It was almost a carbon copy of yesterday. Even heard the same stories on the bus.

Muddy water is muddy water.

DAY FORTY-FOUR, June 22, 0 Miles
At mile 789.5
Bus to Bishop, it's a nice sizable town with everything I need. Still with Todd, he just can't shake me. Pizza Factory was pretty special, so was the three litres of ice-cream I took down today. Dr Pepper, of course, hotel room is great and Monologue appeared this afternoon. Convinced us to take another zero tomorrow. Good idea I say. Turns out my bounce box sent itself back to Wrightwood and has been hanging out there a while. It should be waiting for me in Tuolumne. Perfect.

Bundle-o-yardsticks?

DAY FORTY-THREE, June 21, 14.2 Miles (9 miles Kearsarge Pass)
At mile 789.5
Rather cold this morning, frozen shoes, frozen socks, frosty tent, knee-deep ford ten metres from camp. Magic. Shoes thawed in the creek then refroze on my feet. As soon as I hit sun, hour break. Left the trail to take the Kearsarge Pass side-trail for resupply. Very happy with that decision as the pass and valley below is about the best part I've seen of the Sierra so far. Independence is a nice wee town, The Courthouse Motel is wondrous. Bishop zero tomorrow.

There is a subtle, but important difference.

I'm in South Lake Tahoe, It's the seventh of July. No internets for a while, clearly I'm falling behind with this thing. I'll do the best I can. Michael Jackson memorial service is today, I am still alive.