Thursday, June 24, 2010

When we saw our names up in lights…

Day Seven, 24 June, 0 miles
At Mile 107.5, Poptart 24/1000
Zero yeah. Not really my intention but I should rest and I’m not complaining. Still no word on my maps, almost given them up for lost. Got to sort out my Guidebooks and bag storage situation but otherwise normal zero duties of not much. Got taken down again, this time by a Deli sandwich from the store. The very head of the group is about 6 days ahead there’s got to be around 30 SOBOs between here and them, at least eight from PCT09. Throwing down.

I think I need to eat more Poptarts. It’s getting away from me already.

Day Six, 23 June, 16 miles
At Mile 107.5, Poptart 24/1000
Another early start and very dewy morning. The trail goes into and back out of East Glacier in a pretty tight U so I cut down due south with the hope of finding the trail again and saving myself a couple of pointless miles. Worked out pretty well, there was a flagged trail part way then some open forest, a steep down and out ford and reappeared on the trail that follows the park boundary until I intersected the CDT. That was easy. Saw a bear finally, it saw me first actually. A small, brown, black bear. We watched each other for a while before it disappeared somewhere. The trail to Marias Pass was standard forest/mud fare. Took forty minutes to get a hitch down to East Glacier. East Glacier is still awesome. Everyone is here plus Stretch and Tank. Serrano’s Hostel + Mexican Restaurant I cannot speak highly enough of. The Chipotle Chicken Nachos destroyed me. Amazing and massive.

Everything that was wet dries. Man.

Day Five, 22 June, 21 miles
At Mile 91.5, Poptart 22/1000
Got a nice early start on a clear morning. Easy going up to Pitamakan Pass and even easier going down to Two Medicine. Hit up the campstore and decided to follow Whitefish’s plan to go past East Glacier tomorrow and hike out to Marias Pass. This cuts 15 miles of the next section which for me was going to be as many as 180 miles as I’m skipping the Benchmark Ranch/Augusta resupply. So probably a good idea. Very hot, very exposed climb out of two Medicine up to Scenic Point. Nice view of the divide to the west and the prairies to the east (feat. A Storm). Left Glacier National Park so can camp wherever we so desire. And boy did we. Sleeping with my food, in Grizzly land. Just the way I likes it. I’ve got my bear rock pile.

Triple batteries batteries batteries.

Day Four, 21 June, 10.5 miles
At Mile 70, Poptart 18/1000
Rained on and off all night and most of today. Caught up with Macon Tracks and Not Yet after a hefty ford. Up towards Triple Divide Pass where I started feeling yesterday. Pretty straightforward up the pass, even in almost whiteout. Actually if it was ever going to rain on any pass I’m on (it already has) Triple Divide is the one. Snowmelt and rain starting here don’t have too much space to decide whether they want to end up in the Pacific, Atlantic or Hudson Bay. It would be cool to go up Triple Divide Peak, to the true divide, but whiteout, you know. Was with David and Becky at this point and we did what seems everybody else did in not dropping enough off the pass and hitting the top of a cliff, spotting the trail down below. Getting pretty wet by then, not much snow about except these burly death chutes that kept appearing around almost every bend. Got to Atlantic Creek about 1.30, David and Becky offered to share their site with me which I gladly accepted. The rest of the campsite was booked out with thru-hikers, Macon Tracks and Not Yet, Pace, Whitefish, Coach, Lake and Gabe. Four of us from the PCT last year. So good times. I think this is the most thru-hikers I’ve ever camped with. Crazy. Think it’s clearing finally...

Bad day for mathletixx

Day Three, 20 June, 28.5 miles
At Mile 59.5, Poptart 12/1000
Yeah wow. Had to organise my permit for the next couple of days at the Ranger Station. Full or snowed over campsites restricted my choices severely. Had a 28.5 miles day today with a couple of options tomorrow, both not good. The Rangers have been great though, pretty much letting me do what I want even though they don’t recommend hiking solo or 20+ mile days. Hit snow pretty quickly again on the way up to Piegan Pass. Went down a different trail and had an interesting time finding the trail I was supposed to be on. I never felt lost and kept hitting small sections of trail when it wasn’t under snow cover or footsteps of my predecessors. Really enjoy the route finding aspect of this trail so far. Not that there has been much in the National Park but apparently I am awesome at it anyway. I will be humbled soon enough. Of this I am sure. Can’t wait.
With massive views of the incredible Garden Wall and back where I’d come from distracting me from the eternal up I continued onward. Spotting the trail of footsteps up to the pass I had my destination. The wet snow was avalanching all over the place and a buzzing helicopter was not helping, but no immediate danger to myself. I hit the top of the pass and spotted Pace, Whitefish and Coach far below me heading down below where the trail sidled to avoid numerous active avalanche chutes. Probably a good idea. Someone had also headed straight down off the pass in the previous couple days, headed straight towards the visible piece of the Going-To-The Sun Road. Looked like a good idea until you get bluffed out and either abseil, go down a river or take an avalanche chute. None of those are good ideas. So I stuck with the majority, then left where everybody headed for the trees back up to where I hoped I would find the trail. Followed wolf prints for a while, crossed a line of small bear prints and came across a line of flagging tape that apparently lead to a tree of interest to someone that wasn’t me. Soon after I crossed a dicey creek half covered by snow I spotted a bridge over it and rejoined the trail. Caught the three I’d seen earlier talking with a Ranger. Enjoying the snow travel but ready for dry feet I hit the road and down to a couple of waterfalls via some well manicured, heavily travelled trails. 4.30 in the afternoon and I still had 12 miles to go. Thankfully it was flat and it‘s daylight until 10.30. Appeared as though a bear was the most recent user of this trail so I threw in some sporadic clapping and muttered loudly to myself. The storms were heading west, me east but eventually they caught up with me and it started to rain, then stopped, then started, and so began a trend that was to last the next 24 hours. Finally made it to my campsite after some very frustrating PCT style trail (taking forever to go nowhere) and spotting a moose. I discovered what is wrong with my stove, the thread is so rotten I need to screw it to the canister crooked and hope it doesn’t pop off. And it usually does. Pretty sure this is how explosions happen. Yeah. Think I’ll go back to reliable old coke can stove. I’m pitched on an awkward lean and it stopped raining only after I ate and set up my tent. Hanging all my food for the first time ever and I don’t like it one bit. OOIOO.

Prove it to me then.

Day Two, 19 June, 21.5 miles
At Mile 31, Poptart 8/1000
Very cold last night, but perfect weather today, when it started to get too hot the clouds came over. Thanks man. Up to Red Gap Pass, hit snow but it had a good crust so not much postholing. Beautiful veins of red in the rock up towards the pass. Wait… Red… Rock… Red Rock Pass! Of course. The peak to the north of the pass, Seward, appeared to have footprints going up. So I followed. Peak Bag. Yeah. Turns out it was just a crazy Elk that appeared to be on some sort of manhood quest to climb a mountain for reasons that are beyond me. Why do Elk climb mountains? Maybe it was a Moose? That still doesn’t explain anything.
Anyway, I’m climbing this mountain. And by climbing I mean walking up. In earnest, of course. And it’s getting increasingly burly, becoming technical beyond my hands and shoes. Avalanches across the other side were making me nervous and I was entering crevasse territory. And after the fourth false summit I was rather irritated. So at a shoulder about 300ft below the summit I piked out. Still had an amazing view to the east, south and west. After deciding against starting an avalanche on my way down the south-eastern slope and it being too slushy to glissade down the way I came I rejoined the trail and headed down to Poia Lake. Where there were mosquitoes. Many, many mosquitoes. Pretty boring afternoon down to the Many Glacier Resort, took a side trip up to Apikuni Falls. I smell like a thru-hiker already which is awesome.

Because I still don't believe they're real.

Day One, 18 June, 9.5 miles
At Mile 9.5, Poptart 2/1000
East Glacier is a super friendly little town, very happy the trail comes back through here. Took the shuttle back up to Chief Mountain, the most awesomely shaped mountain of all. Know the park pretty well now, at least where roaded parts. Happy to finally be started, even with a few things still hanging over me, It‘s been too long. Muddy trail, Stewart Island muddy. I’m supposed to make noise to warn any bears of my impending arrival. I’m also supposed to carry Bear Spray, hike with others and not sleep with my food. Oh well. My noise making generally involves me mumbling the words to El Scorcho or epic loud clapping, and that doesn’t happen much cause I’m all self conscious and such. Plenty of water around, no surprises there, the crossings were high but no big deal. I’m carrying my tent for this section, it will rain, then back to the tarp from East Glacier south. Campsite is full, couple other thru hikers around and some super ballsy critters begging for scraps.
For some reason I’m hiking like it’s central Oregan PCT. I cannot do those miles right now and don’t want to but I can see myself hiking hard anyway, no breaks, long days. Got to slow down. Five months.

Prelude sha-na-na na-na

17 June
Getting from Calgary to Waterton proved to be quite a difficult wee sojourn. Three awkwardly timed Greyhounds, too much rain and no sleep got me to Pincher Creek at 2am. With no idea what to do until daylight a very drunk, recently layed-off Oil Patch worker came stumbling around a corner and ended up offering me a place to crash. Hoping he would remember who I was in the morning, I accepted. Pretty easy hitch to Waterton the next morning but it took three rides and I got well soaked. The park folk were beyond helpful and set me up with a permit for Glacier National Park (awkwardly placed designated campsites, watch a Bear Safety Video, all the fun stuff). Got the shuttle down to East Glacier which was nice and it's stopped raining. East Glacier store is cheaper than the Safeway in Downtown Calgary. Go figure. Penn is coming with me again. He's very happy about that.

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

Tips For Avoiding The Clap. 1. I Wouldn't Piss On A Scorpion If It Was On Fire = 50,000

Well Canada, this is it.
It was fun.
I shall return.







































But walk to Mexico I must. I reprinted the first two sections of the CDT, doing that for the whole trail will cost me $200 but at it's an option. Chief Mountain and the start of the Continental Divide cannot come quick enough, with luck I should be there tomorrow afternoon. Pretty happy with the way the winter and spring went down. I was so close to flying back to NZ in October but sticking it out turned out to be one of the best decisions I've made. Wish I had seen more of British Columbia and gone North as well as further East. Ha. But Ontario was fun and good times were had with friends in NY and Michigan. Speaking of Michigan, I finally got one of these wonderful pieces of chicken wonder in me and it is truly special. KFC's Double Down. For some reason KFC Canada refuses to sell them. What you mean 'health concerns'? There are plenty of other ways to consume that many of calories, fat and salt in one sitting, going to stop selling all them as well?








Re-watching all seven seasons of Boy Meets World was magic. Eric Matthews, particularly in the last three seasons has to be one of televisions greatest characters. Watch 'Angela's Men' if you doubt me. Ask Youtube. Street Smart Cyclist and Kid Cudi will always remind me of my Canadian winter. Both amazing. Yeah.





Sorry about the Vevo and radio edit on that one.
Stick around for my CDT good times.
Grizzly Bear fightin'!!!!!!!!

It's hard to continue pretending you don't care about the World Cup when this happens:


Take that, Australia.

The French word for 'Grape' is 'Raisin'? Really? Really?!?

When you have nothing else to worry about, small problems can quickly become exaggerated disasters. No, my map issue is not a small problem. It is the single biggest thing problem anywhere on the planet right now. Of all the thousands of pieces of mail Canada Post handles daily why did this package have to be the one with the problem? Why?
I'm going to start hiking tomorrow, getting replacement maps for the first couple of sections is no big deal and everything else will work itself out I am sure. I hope.
A whole bunch of people started hiking yesterday so I should only be a couple of days behind, and I shouldn't have any awkward six-month-plus-couple-days visa issues because of my December 13th flight home.
I was also able to finish the final season of Boy Meets World, which made me happy.
It's just cost me a fair bit of extra cash sorting out things and staying in Calgary an extra three nights. And my broken camera and "Best Fashion" Nepali watch are going to die any moment but i don't want to replace them just yet.

The Continental Divide Trail. That's what I'm doing. A 2100-3200 mile (depending which routes I take) long corridor down the US continental divide (surprise) between the Canadian and Mexican borders. Like the Pacific Crest Trail with less trail tread, more hunters, Grizzly Bears, more cows, less thru-hikers, longer hitches to towns, more time above 12,000 ft, more cold and more navigating skills required.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Continental_Divide_Trail

I have mostly the same gear as last year:
Pack: Macpac Amp Race 40. Kind of falling apart in places but should hold up. Blaze Orange colour means I don't get shot. Carries well, fairly light, utility belt is awesome. Smells bad.
Shelter: Mountain Laurel Designs Patrol Shelter in Cuban, poles and Bug Bivy. It's pretty awesome, good coverage, roomy and transparent. the Bug Bivy is a little short for my lank.
Sleeping Bag: The wonderful Marmot Hydrogen 30F/-1C that might not be warm enough but should be ok. I know it's limit and am comfortable taking it there (mid-low twenties). My Thermarest Prolite 3 Short and Gossamer Gear 1/8th thinlight help a lot. Was going to carry a bivy in cold sections but that never arrived. Yeah, I know. Postal Service.
Navigation: Let's not talk about that anymore. i have a button compass and my brain. I am over-confident.
Shoes: I have some halfway done old Montrail Hardrocks. The ones everyone loves except me. Will likely go back to New Balance after them.
Grizzly Bear Protection: What? I'll hang my food probably?
Ziplocs: Using the same toilet paper bag as last year (with some leftover tp) and a couple of the same food ziplocs. How awesome am I?
I have an awesome hat, my shemag, uncooperative mp3 player and some clothes.
Good times.

Michael's Le CDT plans and challenges (I want more challenges. Challenge me):
1000 Poptart Challenge (wonder if they would sponsor me....)
100 mile One Candy Challenge (maybe).
One Meal One Section Challenge (I swear I'll do it this time).
McUltimate Challenge.
Double Double Down Challenge.
Break the 50 mile day Challenge.
Cut down the casual swearing Challenge.
On Trail Zero Day.
No Beard this year because it looks awful.
Only use my tarp if I really have to. Cowboy!
10+ Peak Bags. At least.
Actually take photos of interesting things. I'm going to be one of those ultra-irritating camera all the time people, if my camera co-operates.

Sunday, June 13, 2010

Flashover.



New Klaxons. Confusing. I didn't say it was bad.

But I didn't say it was good either.

Great Northern State.

Still in Canada, waiting for my package to arrive. Waiting.
I think Canada knows I am leaving, perhaps for good. It's trying to keep me here. Let me go Canada, let me go. Please. I beg you.







I drew this to help any prospective visitors to this country. Plus my super useful Canadian city guide:
Victoria- Good friends, good job, nice winter. Good views of the awesomeness that is northern Washington. But. Ugly city, too much crack, bad pay, expensive, annoyingly proud citizens and stop asking me for money man. Go away.
Ucluelet- Way better than Tofino. Way.
Vancouver- Overrated.
Calgary- Awkward. Clean and empty. Even on a sunny spring Saturday afternoon. Where is everybody?
Thunder Bay- Stay at the Sleeping Giant Guesthouse. That is all. Massive vortex.
Sault Ste. Marie- Don't bother. Top Five Stopover my ass.
Toronto- Does big, filthy, unfriendly city really, really well. And I love it for that.
Niagara Falls- Drive there, look at the falls briefly, continue on your way. Preferably your way would be somewhere in NY.
Ottawa- Does bland but beautiful capital city with not much to do way better than Canberra and Wellington. Super nice.
Montréal- If I wanted to see French people, I would go to France.

You can thank me later.

Saturday, June 12, 2010

Swear word swear word swear word square word. Shit.

Thunder Bay was pleasantly amazing. Best hostel in the country for sure right there. Good times, hard to leave.
Calgary is a nice city with nobody in it.
In between was a 36 hour bus ride. Shit.
And I almost, almost lost my bags on one of the transfers. They weren't on the same bus as me, but the bus they were on arrived earlier and they were there waiting for me. Shit, lucky.
The Canadian Plains were much more interesting than their American counterpart. Plus one to Canada, still losing badly.
36 straight hours on Greyhound is every bit as bad as you think but at least I had two seats the entire time. I'd take it over a 12 Indian bus trip any day. Even with the insane, muttering, surrounded-by-a-plastic-sheet force-field (not kidding) man behind me for ten hours or so.

Everything right now for me is all CDT CDT CDT. Shit.
This is causing problems. Shit.
I have not really organised or planned anything. That was fine on the Pacific Crest but this Continental Divide Trail requires a little more attention. I'm sure it will be fine but it's hard to calm myself when my maps are missing.
Yes that's right. Missing.
Shit.
My three+ kilograms of paper that will guide me back to the Mexico/U.S. border is somewhere where I don't know where it is. This is really, really bad.
I had them mailed to the hostel I'm currently at but no dice. Unless they are in some room. A room that won't be unlocked until tomorrow. I really, really need to leave tomorrow. Early.
And if they're not in there I really, really have no idea what I'm going to do. No idea. I would have to print off 300 maps again as well as re-buying the road Atlases, that would require a printer and at least a couple of days and money I don't want to spend. Shit. My head is all over the place right now. I don't need this.
SHIT.
I know none of this makes sense but I'm not thinking straight right now.
Sorry.
Shit.

Friday, June 4, 2010

Why is last.fm so full of Russians?



Feel your pain Gavin. I feel your pain.
I piked out of my hitch and weaseled a half price bus ticket my Student Card from 2005. And it's raining.
New Foals:

Thursday, June 3, 2010

Hyped! Shut up!

http://translate.google.pl/#is|pl|sigur%20r%C3%B3s
Very very special.

Thumbs.

Hitchhiking. Goddamn. I hate it so much, but enjoy it almost as much. I'm willing to do it but never look forward to it. I almost always get picked up by someone amazing/interesting/generous/wonderful but hate standing on the side of a highway for two hours waiting for them to appear. When it takes a day and a half to complete what should be a three hour drive, my head gets clouded with frustration. I couldn't honestly differentiate it from street begging. And I hate street begging. America hasn't been too bad hitch-wise, so long as you avoid Interstates. Which is usually the problem.

Back from a week in Michigan and my return to the UP, greatest place in America. Ben dropped me off just outside Marquette before he started this. I was headed towards my old nemesis, Sault Ste Marie. Back to Canada. I walked over an hour on the highway shoulder before I got picked by Frank, an 84 year old WWII paratrooping veteran corporate lawyer extraordinaire who embodies all of what I said up there about people who pick me up. I had 38 miles left after Frank and I parted ways. It was a little after 1pm. Awesome. Second car that passed me picked me up but could only take me three miles. OK. I was in high spirits. I LOVE travelling this way. Another hour later I was over it. I HATE this. No more. Unfortunately I was in the middle of nowhere. A position where I would see someone who genuinely needs assistance, yet all these drivers see is "Holy fuck he wants to kill me! Don't stop! DON'T STOP!!". I walked off the highway and into the forest. I had my tarp, a book (City of Thieves by David Benioff, ridiculous good) and some music. No food though (I wouldn't eat for 23 hours, oh woe is me!!). But I had plenty of sleep to catch up on after a week of good times. No problem. Early this morning I got a relatively quick ride from Steve who'd hitched down to Florida more times than he could remember and had some astonishing stories for me. Sault Michigan is way better than this side, I had my fortune told at the bus stop and like it.

See what I mean.
Tomorrow I start a 700km hitch to Thunder Bay. $140 for the bus is ridiculous. Dang.

If you're really bored: http://www.socresonline.org.uk/6/3/chesters.html
Also, get Donnis' mixtape if you like the rap musak.