November 13 22.
Only a three hour walk from Jharkot, up to about 4200m. The village is three tiny lodges, very rough and basic but very useful as tomorrow will top at 5416m Thorong La (La means pass) and this is the last village on this side. Only one other person here as everyone attempts the pass coming over from the other, easier, side with much better acclimatisation. Not us though. Actually, we need to do it this way as it fits what we (i.e. Anthony) want to do infinitely better. Spent the last hour picking thorns out of my hand from some horrid bush that makes Spaniards seem like clouds (and there's still thorns in there a month later) and it's going to be COLD tonight. Exciting.
November 14 Trip On Excess Steps.
Started at 6:30 this morning, and apparently that was late. Was so damn cold my water bottles froze within an hour. And I thought shorts would be a good idea, my legs were purple. It was a pretty steep climb and loads of people were coming down the other side as we slogged up making me wonder if they left really early (turns out they do, sometimes 3am, although that is overkill) or it really is a lot easier the other way (yeah, it is). This is my first experience walking at high altitude and far out it's hard. You just can't walk. You can't breathe. You just want to sit there. I think the oxygen rate is about half that at sea level so every deep breath is really a half breath so you feel winded constantly. And this is only 5400. So much respect and understanding of the physical and mental demands of climbing an 8000er now. We were the second last of the day over at about midday, and you practically run back down. Started getting a headache from the altitude and was pretty exhausted by the time we got to Thorong Pedi, which is the start point if coming the other way, but it was very crowded and a bit dumpy even though it's in a beautiful valley end. Decided to walk an extra hour and a half to Letdar which was a slog but well worth it. Eating the best food yet in front of a fire soothed my headache and exhaustion into a smile. I wish I had taken some photos up the pass but it was cold and I was tired and my batteries are very temperamental below zero anyway (they usually don't bother). Oh well.
November 15 Sour Dudes.
After the easiest, most pleasant three hour walk down the valley with some amazing views of unbelievable geology we hit Manang. It is a bit more expensive than we're used to, although we are staying in a hotel rather than a lodge and it is jam packed full of tourists. We met one of our porters, Hem Prasad, apparently Chhiri (our guide) and the other porters have been held back a day with their current group. We aren't to sure what's going on as Hem has practically no English and just agrees with whatever we ask or say, no matter what it is and whether he understands, in true Nepali style. We will walk to Khangsar on the afternoon of the 17th and hopefully meet the rest there.
November 16 Well That's A Poor Argument, I Mean Every Band Has At Least One Person Who Thinks They're OK, Besides Your Socks Are Frozen...
It's 10:30, unexpected rest day. Most of the tourists have left towards Thorong or on acclimatisation trips so its pretty quiet for the moment. We found an awesome cheap bhatti (restaurant, sort of) with an amazingly, if unintentionally, entertaining host. I swear, five dice always equals twenty.
November 17 Porter! Oh, Porter!
Left for Khangsar with Hem and met up with the others along the way so turned out alright. Got to Khangsar about 2:00. Why do I need porters? Shouldn't I be carrying everything and if I can't leave it behind? Well yes, but let me explain. The really touristy parts of the treks we're doing are fine. Easy, plenty of lodges, near impossible to get lost and most locals know enough English and we know enough Nepali to communicate quite well. But the more difficult and remote parts (Lonely Planet suggests we will die) we need at least a guide, and porters help by carrying a weeks worth of sometimes overly extravagant food, tents, climbing equipment, etc. Tony Manea is good friends with the owner of our trekking company so we get lots of flex ability and 100% trust. Porting is one of the traditional ways of transporting goods in the hills, it provides much needed and well paying employment and exposes them to English which gives them greater opportunities (I know). If nothing else they're good fun and good companions. So we have our guide, Chhiri (I'm pretty sure that's how he spelled it), plus four main porters Binod (the cook), Hem Prasad (also assistant cook but they all help), Hira Kati and Bishnu Lama who are all simply the best, plus a couple who we had for a few days. They carry, set up camp and cook and are all gun walkers, although Bishnu is on Bishnu time. We carry our own stuff but they do nearly everything for us which takes some getting used to but I suppose we are paying for a service and they're getting paid to do it. We try do be as demanding as possible...
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